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Still Struggling with Perth after 12 years


Buddy4

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Hi all

 

As a family, we have really struggled with Perth. We are really jealous of those people who love Perth and are able to call it home, as we hate this continual unsettled feeling of knowing Perth is not for us. Perth gets a bit of a bashing on PIO, and we want to avoid it in this post. It would appreciated if we could hear from others who moved from Perth and whether it cured them. At the moment, our options are Brisbane and Melbourne. I get a lot of negative feedback when I mention both cities - people mention the humidity in Brisbane, and the traffic, as well as the rednecks. With Melbourne, people mention the overcrowding, the weather and the traffic and poor public transport.

 

Rather than mention the shortcomings of Perth, we would rather concentrate on what we would be seeking comparitively from a City, as follows:

 

 

 

 

  • Abit more greenery and a few more hills and a bit more scenery, maybe with some rivers and streams ( I know I could be pushing it here);
  • A few more options for day trips and weekend trips;
  • A few more wordly people
  • A bit more of an international feel
  • A bit more vibe and buzz
  • A more integrated public transport system, allowing you to have a night out without being at the mercy of the taxis
  • A place where people don't retire for the night at 8.30
  • More of a student vibe and university scene for my kids
  • More of a community spirit, where people don't drive into their garages and you never see them again
  • A place where people go out and socialise more than entertain at home

 

 

We appreciate we are looking for a lot here. All feedback appreciated. Thanks for reading.

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It's almost like you want somewhere that doesn't have Australian culture, I presume that you are ruling out moving back to the UK, where you would easily find everything you are looking for in any number of cities?

 

I only lived in Perth so maybe the culture is different is other cities but having travelled quite a bit on business and having associates in pretty much every city I think what struck me is they are more alike than they are different. It's fair to say Melbourne and Sydney have much more of a vibe on a night out but unless you are loaded you would end up living out in the suburbs & it would be much a muchness with Perth.

 

Where do you live in Perth? Maybe moving to another suburb would achieve just as much? You're not going to find somewhere that ticks all your boxes but we lived in Fremantle and it had a real community feel, people did entertain at home but there was also a nice coffee shop/restaurant scene and clubs/bars/pubs. There's a free CAT bus around Freo itself, and direct train to Perth city centre. There are lots of travellers and students so it's a great place for young adults.

 

Of course it has the same landscape as the rest of Perth and the same few places you can get for the weekend.

 

We did move from Perth but back to the UK so can't help with your main question. We did consider a move within Australia but the people that don't settle in Australia seem to make similar observations and that's regardless of where in Australia they live. For us it was just too high risk, if we were going to move it had to be to a place we'd stay because of where our son is at in his education.

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Oh poor you....I really feel for you.

my rellie used to live in london and loved it there and now loves it in melbourne because it is cosmopolitan etc.

 

personally, I didn't like melbourne.....I also dont like london so that figures

 

I understand u not getting on in perth (not bashing it, I understand that it is perfect for some)

 

Maybe u can find what u r looking for elsewhere in oz - I think so. Good luck :jimlad:

 

edit: have just read other posts and think they have more experience so maybe same experience everywhere?

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I don't know enough but from visiting possibly Sydney will tick most of those boxes but you would need a good income if you want to live near enough to the city (Due to the mercy of the taxis). I think generally unless you live in the city centre (or near enough) you need to get a taxi after a night out? If you were to stay in Perth like a previous poster has mentioned what about Fremantle? Hope you find the happiness your looking for.

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First off, ignore the people in Perth who are negative about Brisbane and Melbourne - there is a reason they are in Perth and not those places. There are definitely people on the forum that have moved from one state to another and settled better in the new place, but there are also those who don't settle anywhere in Australia because what they really want is to be in the UK.

 

Could you afford to take a short break in Melbourne and Brisbane? I know it's not the same as living there but at least you would get to see the places for yourself before committing to anything. Research the public transport options in each place for yourself. If they are anything like Adelaide some suburbs will be well served and others will have poor public transport links. Where we live we have good bus links and they run until late at night (free after midnight as well, not that I've ever been on them later than 6pm), but there are other parts of Adelaide where the bus service is pretty poor.

 

I know what you mean about the green and the hills. We chose the suburb we live in because it's right next to the hills (but still quite flat), has loads of trees and green open spaces and even has a creek running through it (which is dry half the year, but it's a creek all the same). We are further away from the beach but that was never a factor for me. You could probably find similar suburbs in Brisbane and Melbourne although I have no idea how affordable they would be. Good luck with it all.

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People in Australia are very partisan about their city - ask a Sydneysider about any other city and he'll bag it, and vice versa.

 

Sydney is green, there's lots happening, vast numbers of cafes and restaurants and scope for day trips (Blue Mountains, beaches up and down the coast, Hunter Valley wineries). Public transport is comprehensive and fairly reliable, even late at night (though crowded during the day). There are three big universities. The snag is cost of housing: to get the best vibe and avoid the heat, you MUST be close to the city - no further west than Burwood - and that's expensive. Although Parramatta has a big restaurant precinct, the outer suburbs are more like Perth - the nice areas are too family-oriented and the rest are full of bogans!

 

Sydney is a pretty brash city - Melbourne has more culture. It's famous for its laneway cafes and restaurants. Melbourne also has excellent public transport, and because Victoria is such a small densely populated state (by Aussie standards) there are plenty of places to visit (gold fields, Daylesford spa, Great Ocean Road, penguin parade etc). Housing is generally cheaper in Melbourne than Sydney. I'm not familiar with the suburbs but again, if you want to get the best vibe you can't be too far out - Melbourne is sprawling.

 

Brisbane is just a big country town, similar in feel to Perth (but hotter and stickier). I like Adelaide but it is a quiet, refined city - I don't think it would be lively enough for you. Plus there aren't many day trip options.

 

The snag is that because of the distance, it's going to cost you almost as much to move to another state, as to move back to the UK. So you really need to do your research before moving. You should certainly go and visit Melbourne and Sydney for a few days each. I know it's not cheap flying from Perth but this is a big change you're proposing and you can't afford to get it wrong!

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I live in Perth but I visit Brisbane regularly as my daughters both live there. I would say personally that Brisbane really us not dissimilar to Perth, the countryside you've described could be found probably on the Sunshine Coast and the nightlife on the Gold Coast. I've never visited Melbourne but I'd have thought it was most f the things you've described but maybe try to take a long holiday in both before you decide.

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You are not alone in not feeling Perth is the place for you to be. I have not lived there as I was in my twenties when my parents moved to Perth. They moved over from New Zealand to live in Perth as my Uncle and his family had moved over from the UK and settled there. Mum and Dad gave it a good try but they did not settle and they moved away from it. People move from all of the cities to other cities as they do not suit what they are looking for. A good friend of mine born and bred in Sydney has lived in Melbourne for yonks as she does not like the Sydney climate. We have to find our niche.

 

There is nothing wrong with any of the major places its us that needs to find the right one.

 

For me its Melbourne, I have lived in Sydney and found it less friendly and a bit insular as they have lots of clubs there and people tend to belong to them. Just my view no hatred for the place, loved the harbour had a great job. I actually moved to Melbourne with the friend I mentioned above and we have been here ever since for the most part.

 

I do not think moving to a place means we are set in concrete, we need to move if its not to our liking. Not liking it is just a personal thing. However people seem to think that its a slur on the place and it certainly is not.

 

Good luck

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If you want vibe and buzz its gotta be Melbourne.

 

Not sure about what you have heard about Brisbane, sounds like they lived in crap suburbs. Humidity isn't often that bad either.

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You might like to look at St Lucia in Brisbane - near University of Queensland. I loved the weather in Brisbane (compared with Melbourne) but you don't get the cool change there. We managed without an air conditioner. My brother went to Perth after graduating from James Cook University in Townsville and he never settled and now lives in Texas which he loves.

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I'd say (probably) Melbourne, although you'd have to be selective about area. I'm thinking maybe eastern suburbs towards Dandenong Ranges.

If you want "a bit more greenery" you are going to have "weather"...because greenery only comes with rain.

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If you want vibe and buzz its gotta be Melbourne.

 

Not sure about what you have heard about Brisbane, sounds like they lived in crap suburbs. Humidity isn't often that bad either.

 

Whether humidity is or isn't a problem is very subjective.

 

I used to visit my best friend up there at least twice a year. I found the humidity unbearable, and I'm used to Sydney weather so it's not like I'm not used to humid weather.

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A good friend of mine born and bred in Sydney has lived in Melbourne for yonks as she does not like the Sydney climate.

 

What doesn't she like about the Sydney climate? I'm not good with humidity and have often thought about moving elsewhere in Oz to get away from it. I know Melbourne has more "weather" generally but isn't it just as hot and humid at times? I'm also looking for cheaper housing as we want to retire and can't afford to in Sydney, because unlike many Sydneysides we don't have a million-dollar home to downsize from!

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Well Tasmania of course..Moved down here from WA 2 years ago, and talk about heaven on earth..apart from the weather of course...But Melbourne was 44 degrees the other day, here in Tassie was 25 degrees..I know where I would rather be..and not too many people either here..Pure bliss for me,..

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I wondered about Tassie - the cooler the better for me, ex-Scot here from chilly Aberdeen, so I feel the heat. However I'm like the Perth poster - if it's too quiet I get bored. I'd need to be in Hobart if anywhere, and I worry folks might not be "worldly" enough, to borrow a phrase from the original poster.

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Thanks to everyone for their replies.

 

 

To answer previous posters:

 

We have considered the UK, but have recently heard lots of stories of people moving back and then returning to Australia. Australia has given us so much as a family, so we want to give it our best shot. If the likes of Brisbane and Melbourne (or Tassie) don't meet our expectations, we will consider the UK.

 

We have now lived in 8 suburbs in Perth, in search mainly of a community feel, and to try and feel a bit more settled, with no luck. We have made a conscious effort to live in suburbs that are not full of Brits, but to be honest, we find the West Aussies friendly to a point, but they don't really let you in unless there is somethng in it for them. If I had a dollar for the amount of times we have heard the saying "must invite you round for a barbie", which never happens. We are very sociable and have invited neighbours and other West Assies around for drnks etc but these invites are not reciprocated. You begin to think it is you after a while but I have heard similar stories from others. I travel to the east coast a bit through work and definitely notice the east coast aussies to be a lot friendliey to.

 

Thanks to the recommendations on Sydney. I have found Sydney to be a bit brash and plastic at times (although I admit I have not lived there).

 

A lot of people who bag Perth go on about the heat, the flies, the isolation, the high cost of liviing, but we were aware of most of these through research before we came, so can't complain about these things. The sense of community is something that sadly lacks for us, as too many people retreat behind their garage doors at night, not to be seen until the door goes up the next day. Also, not sure if it is just us or not, but we hardly ever see kids playing in the street here, or many people in the street, which has been the same in the 12 years we have been here - we find this very weird.

 

 

e Mornington Peninsula an hour south of Melbourne is lovely and is much favored by Brits.

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It's almost like you want somewhere that doesn't have Australian culture, I presume that you are ruling out moving back to the UK, where you would easily find everything you are looking for in any number of cities?

 

I only lived in Perth so maybe the culture is different is other cities but having travelled quite a bit on business and having associates in pretty much every city I think what struck me is they are more alike than they are different. It's fair to say Melbourne and Sydney have much more of a vibe on a night out but unless you are loaded you would end up living out in the suburbs & it would be much a muchness with Perth.

 

Where do you live in Perth? Maybe moving to another suburb would achieve just as much? You're not going to find somewhere that ticks all your boxes but we lived in Fremantle and it had a real community feel, people did entertain at home but there was also a nice coffee shop/restaurant scene and clubs/bars/pubs. There's a free CAT bus around Freo itself, and direct train to Perth city centre. There are lots of travellers and students so it's a great place for young adults.

 

Of course it has the same landscape as the rest of Perth and the same few places you can get for the weekend.

 

We did move from Perth but back to the UK so can't help with your main question. We did consider a move within Australia but the people that don't settle in Australia seem to make similar observations and that's regardless of where in Australia they live. For us it was just too high risk, if we were going to move it had to be to a place we'd stay because of where our son is at in his education.

WA isn't like the rest of Australia. Very apparent after meeting my first West Aussies the day I joined the military in 1970

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