Melbourne - The Sequel

[olly]

Your opinion is valid buckbuchanan, and as said in other posts, each to their own. Having been to Manchester, I can see where you might get the comparison. Melbourne may be seen by some Brits as more 'like' a British city than say Sydney or Brisbane. Having said that Melbourne (and Victoria) is very very big and each place has a different flavour, so I would say it is possible for some forum members who are not here yet to find a place that they do like. There are many Brits here (like my parents) who came here because they couldn't cope with the heat further north. I have lived and travelled all around the world, and have seen slums/filth/graffiti/crime/needles in many cities, none of this is exclusive to Melbourne. Melbourne's climate is not the worst in the world either, it is cold at night in the winter yes, but many of the days are crisp and sunny (think London in November) and from around Sept - March we have quite reasonable weather compared to other places in the world. Having said that, where you have settled Buckbuchanan is very nice too, a great area to live (I have family there too) so I wish you all the very best.

[Guest treesea]

Should i be having second thoughts??? me and my partner were hoping to move to St Kilda has anyone visited there???

 

Linzi x

 

mmm...MMM...! My dream place to live in Melbourne. You and your partner have good taste. Put it this way, if I knew then about Melbourne what I know now (though perhaps a bit out of date as I haven't lived there for five years) I would have moved to St Kilda from the off and stayed put, and probably would still be there now.

 

Good things: It's a BRILLIANT place to live on the weekends. Great coffee and cakes, it's own cinema, it's own theatre, Luna Park if you like that sort of thing, the sea, kite flying on Sundays, roller blading along the esplanade in the mornings. And it also has a brilliant light rail service into the city which has a dedicated stop at South Melbourne market, so a good link up if you like fresh food.

 

When it gets really hot in Melbourne - and it does - that sea breeze is going to feel well worth the effort.

 

I thought Melbourne was a beautiful place - not my idea of grotty. It definitely does have its cold, wet, grey moments though. I saw a lot more rain - and more exciting rain I might add, in Melbourne than I have ever seen in Edinburgh. And sure, there are places like the OP described. I wouldn't live in places like Abbotsford or Collingwood, also inner city, but a lot grainier than places like St Kilda, Elwood, and the like. But when it comes right down to it, each to his own. If you have a type of location you like in Britain, you can probably find something similar in Australia.

 

My advice would be to just try it and see. Imho, St Kilda is a great starting point. As the OP says, if you don't like it, other states and cities beckon, and they are all really different to each other. Even within Melbourne, there are huge variations from place to place.

[Petals]

I guess Edinburgh is in drought now as the op says she saw more rain in Melbourne, where.

 

Melbourne is facing another year of serious bush fire danger due to the drought we have had for 13 years now. Drought means "lack of rain" I believe.

 

Shame about Edinburgh though as we will be over next year visiting Scotland was hoping for some greenery

[olly]

I guess Edinburgh is in drought now as the op says she saw more rain in Melbourne, where.

 

Melbourne is facing another year of serious bush fire danger due to the drought we have had for 13 years now. Drought means "lack of rain" I believe.

 

Shame about Edinburgh though as we will be over next year visiting Scotland was hoping for some greenery

 

And don't forget the water storage in

Victoria at approx 24% - more rain please:yes:

[Guest The Pom Queen]

Hey Buck

Welcome back we were only talking about you last week and wondering how you were going. I am glad that you have finally found somewhere that you liked and didn't give up. For people who are new to the forum, Buck has never liked Melbourne from when he first landed. I can remember one of his posts it was a scorcher outside and we all thought he must have been stood under the air con unit as he was freezing. I hope the weather is better now for you, and you can sit outside.

I understand that some suburbs are not for everyone but it's funny because what is a perfect suburb for one family is a dump to another. I always advise people to come with an open mind and choose a suburb that is right for THEM not what others say.

Good luck with your new life and I hope everything works out for you and you can finally settle down and start enjoying what Australia has to offer, and good luck with the new job.

Kate

[Guest The Pom Queen]

Should i be having second thoughts??? me and my partner were hoping to move to St Kilda has anyone visited there???

 

Linzi x

 

Hi Linzi

if you are young and have no children then St Kilda will probably be ideal for you. There is plenty going on. There are some rough areas in St Kilda but there are also some stunning areas.

I won't say ignore Bucks post because everyone has there own ideas and are entitled to say exactly what they think, but Buck has never settled in Melbourne and has hated it from day 1. Everyone is different and for every 1 person that hates Melbourne there will be 10 that love it.

We have had quite a few people settled in St Kilda when they have arrived and others who have chosen a suburb further out only to move up to St Kilda and Port Melbourne.

 

Personally, I wouldn't move there with a family, although I do know a couple of families who have settled there and loved it.

 

Here are some photos of the beach/beach front.

 

[Guest The Pom Queen]

 

Please take note of all the people on the beach in their thick coats and scarves because the weather is sooooo cold

[Guest The Pom Queen]

[Guest itskaren]

Should i be having second thoughts??? me and my partner were hoping to move to St Kilda has anyone visited there???

 

Linzi x[/quote

 

St Kilda is nice but I 100% agree with the OP.

 

Good Luck, you'll need it.

[Guest bowbrummer]

Since when does a post have to be "balanced"? As long as it's the truth, that's the main thing. I'm not going to make it balanced just to keep you happy!

:wink:

[tracy123]

For anyone interested in Victoria’s history.

Victoria was once the richest state due to the gold rush of the 1800’s, take a look at the grandeur of some of the older buildings. At that point in Australia’s history most of the migrants came from the UK so you will find a lot of Victoria’s older buildings, houses are in the style of the UK. Take a look at Fitzroy gardens it was designed as a Union Jack (changed over time but the main shape is still there).

At one point in time it was very fashionable to move to Victoria as it was just like home (the UK) with 4 seasons etc.

Saint Kilda.

Is great for days out I would say it has the best fish and chip shop in Victoria if not Australia (not been to all but from what I’ve tasted) in Acland Street, then you have the cake shops not as many as I remember, the beach, Luna Park, just down the road Albert park with a great children’s play ground.

Places like this are great for days out, but me personally I’d rather live in a boring suburb that forces me to get out and enjoy my weekend days off. Sometimes having everything on your doorstep makes you lazy.

[buckbuchanan]

Welcome back Bucks

 

I see your view has not changed on Victoria!!!! Congratulations on trying a new state and not giving up on Australia.

Can I ask an honest question? Did you try to see the good side of the state or have you had your mind set after your first few bad weeks and nothing was really going to change that? (understand?)

Anyway I hope all works out for you and your family

 

All the best

 

Geoffrey

Hi Geoffrey. Good question.... During our 18 months there we pretty much saw all of Victoria. We bought a camper and went away probably every 3rd weekend. There are some gorgeous areas in Victoria, but unless you go into the more remote northern areas you aint going to get much in the way of a sun tan! We also had a fair amount of washout weekends (i'm not totally convinced about this drought!). Also, with my work, I am pretty much tied to the capital cities, so not much chance of getting too far from Melbourne. We also lived in 3 different places while we were there. Although the best wasn't too bad, it wasn't great either. Certainly not worth the time, money, and stress we put in to moving over here!

[Guest juliemtaylor]

Good Luck with your new chapter - and don't forget that update!!!

 

Julie x

[Guest the terry's]

Hi Buck, I'm really glad you have finally found that somewhere special. It's trus one state is very different from the other, at least you gave it a try can't ask more than that. Now your in the sun don't forget to 'SLIP, SLOP AND SLAP' !!!!

 

All the best and keep us informed on the good, the bad and the ugly,

 

Helenx

[Guest hammfam]

Having lived in Melbourne for nearly three years I can see what the OP is talking about but also don't agree with it all. Melbourne is a city and cities have similarities wherever they are. I have found that some people are friendly and some are not - again it seems to reflect what happens everywhere. I can only guess that the OP had a view of Australia initially and Melbourne just didn't cut it - and probably never would. I wanted to live in Melbourne because I wanted some seasons, I didn't want to live by the beach and do need to live near the city for work purposes. But I think you can find the right balance. We live in Warrandyte, which is a pretty small town along the Yarra - a bit fire prone yes but it is the balance between the country and the city. I have considered looking at other states and will be going to Perth soon on a work trip so will have a look at it there... having said that we are settled in Melbourne, there is plenty to do and there are good and bad points.

[bunbury61]

Well... it's been a long time. Thought it was about time for one of my honest / provocative posts!

 

The story so far....

* Arrived in Melbourne (Feb 08) - it was raining/grey/dull/cold (supposedly summer) - hated it.

* Lived in Abbotsford (described by some as "gritty" - described by me as "a slum").

* Grafitti and drug addicts everywhere... need to move out.

* Moved to Bayside (allegedly the "best"area) - hated it.

* Weather still poor....

* Moved to Melton (cheap but cheerful) - ok but OH HATED (notice capital letters) it.

* Weather worse than before - would be better off in Scotland.

Need to move.....

 

So, last time I posted we were looking at moving to the west of Melbourne. Now... this was an ok move - the west isn't any worse than the east (despite what people say). However, the east isn't up to much, and lets face it - there are some serious "trouble spots" in the east. Bottom line is we didn't like it here any better.

 

So, we decided to move to NSW (despite the fact that we are on a Vic sponsored vias). Unfortunately I couldn't find any work (due to the recession + it just seeming to be harder to tick all the boxes in the interviews!). Eventually (5 months after first looking for work in NSW) I was offered a job in the CBD. Hurrrrahhh!

 

So, we did a quick recce.... looks good.

 

To cut a long story short, we have moved to Terrigal in the Central Coast. It is a truly amazing place. I feel like I have moved from earth to mars - it really is that different. Where Melbourne was grotty ("gritty") and slummy looking, I just think it is paradise here. Everywhere is nice and neat; the sky is clear and blue most of the time; I have gone from being constantly wrapped up in padded jacket and scarf, battling against the wind, to walking around in tee shirt and shorts...... need I go on. Also, it is such a scenic area - the train journey in to Sydney is stunning. All our neighbours have come out and introduced themselves and have been unbelievably friendly (we had the complete opposite in Melbourne - notes left on car telling us not to park in front of their house).

 

So far I can't say a bad thing about the place. Apart from where we are living, I think Sydney CBD is quite a place as well. The sights that you see on TV are even more majestic in real life - something that Melbourne simply can't compete with.

 

I've done my bit of Melbourne bashing.... I don't mean to - i'm not going out of my way to upset people - it's just that I hate everything about the place. I will put the record a bit straight by saying that some people like it - it's just not for me. It is cold, dull, grotty, dirty, etc, etc - if I wanted that I would move to a similar place in the UK, and the chances are I would have better weather without the water restrictions!

 

So there you have it. We are now in NSW and love it. We are even talking about a permenant future here! Who knows what the future holds.

 

Any of you who hate it over here need to read this.... move to a different state. It is like going to a different planet. Different attitudes... different people... different scenery.... even different trains and rail companies (the NSW double deck trains are seriously cool). You might just find like we have that you will love it.

 

Well done mate .....genuinely pleased for you .....good on ya !

[bunbury61]

The OP is entitled to his opinion having lived there. And I totally agree that if the place you land isn't what you expect then try somewhere else, because you will find huge differences. It's a damned big country.

 

Personally, I agree with most of what he said. When we first visited Melbourne, 18 years ago, we christened it the Manchester of Australia. Very industrial, textile centre of Aus, and yes, dirty and grimy. We thought it was a rat race - not the sea-change we were looking for. We have visited many times since and still think exactly the same. Coming from the Manchester area, it did nothing for us - we came to Australia for something different.

 

I accept lots of people love Melbourne. But that's the great thing about life - we are all different. If we weren't the world would be a boring place.

 

Cheers, Kazza

 

Got to say we visited Melbourne in 94 - instant dislike.

We had been living in bunbury w.a , which at the time Bob Geldof ( true) described as being like America in the 50s.

Sorry to all you people in Melbourne ,not for me........there again i wouldnt want to live in a big city ......full stop......going in to Brum once in a while is bad enough.

[buckbuchanan]

going in to Brum once in a while is bad enough.

Hehe :spinny:

[olly]

You have said it pretty much there Bunbury - you didn't want to live in a big city - I guess that could go for any city. But it is worth remembering, that like Brits who don't live in London or the other UK cities but choose to live in smaller villages, there are also Victorians who choose not to live in Melbourne and live quite happily in other areas in Victoria, including smaller cities like Geelong, or even smaller places like Ballarat, Bairnsdale (the fabulous Gippsland region, I love it) and Bendigo. It is such a big place, so it is worth mentioning that Melbourne is only the capital, it is not the only representation of Victoria. Once again I think the main thing to remember is the weather differences - take a look at the nation's weather today -28C in Queensland (fire danger warnings) and the last week or so in Melbourne it has been cold, wet, windy and storm warnings. Oh, yes, you have to want to live here for sure, that's why the Queenslanders take good aim at us down here, they think we are mad living here in the winter months ! It comes down to choice once again, good luck to all of you who make your choices, hope it's the right one. There are other places in Australia I could easily live, but my family are here so that's what seals it for me. I do love and know my city though, even although I am sitting by the heater this morning :arghh: (there is nothing wrong with the heating in my house it is working very well this morning ! ).

[Guest coopercav]

You have said it pretty much there Bunbury - you didn't want to live in a big city - I guess that could go for any city. But it is worth remembering, that like Brits who don't live in London or the other UK cities but choose to live in smaller villages, there are also Victorians who choose not to live in Melbourne and live quite happily in other areas in Victoria, including smaller cities like Geelong, or even smaller places like Ballarat, Bairnsdale (the fabulous Gippsland region, I love it) and Bendigo. It is such a big place, so it is worth mentioning that Melbourne is only the capital, it is not the only representation of Victoria. Once again I think the main thing to remember is the weather differences - take a look at the nation's weather today -28C in Queensland (fire danger warnings) and the last week or so in Melbourne it has been cold, wet, windy and storm warnings. Oh, yes, you have to want to live here for sure, that's why the Queenslanders take good aim at us down here, they think we are mad living here in the winter months ! It comes down to choice once again, good luck to all of you who make your choices, hope it's the right one. There are other places in Australia I could easily live, but my family are here so that's what seals it for me. I do love and know my city though, even although I am sitting by the heater this morning :arghh: (there is nothing wrong with the heating in my house it is working very well this morning ! ).

I think days like today in front of the heater help you appreciate when it is 28C. If it's like it all year round then you could argue it's harder to appreciate the good weather that you get and from what I can gather there's plenty of that in Melbourne still. But as you say, each to their own, there are no wrong answers.

Mark.

[tracy123]

You have said it pretty much there Bunbury - you didn't want to live in a big city - I guess that could go for any city. But it is worth remembering, that like Brits who don't live in London or the other UK cities but choose to live in smaller villages, there are also Victorians who choose not to live in Melbourne and live quite happily in other areas in Victoria, including smaller cities like Geelong, or even smaller places like Ballarat, Bairnsdale (the fabulous Gippsland region, I love it) and Bendigo. It is such a big place, so it is worth mentioning that Melbourne is only the capital, it is not the only representation of Victoria. Once again I think the main thing to remember is the weather differences - take a look at the nation's weather today -28C in Queensland (fire danger warnings) and the last week or so in Melbourne it has been cold, wet, windy and storm warnings. Oh, yes, you have to want to live here for sure, that's why the Queenslanders take good aim at us down here, they think we are mad living here in the winter months ! It comes down to choice once again, good luck to all of you who make your choices, hope it's the right one. There are other places in Australia I could easily live, but my family are here so that's what seals it for me. I do love and know my city though, even although I am sitting by the heater this morning :arghh: (there is nothing wrong with the heating in my house it is working very well this morning ! ).

 

Don't worry Olly when it's winter we can go up north put on our t-shirt and shorts and have a mini summer holiday while the bananna benders walk around in jumpers looking at us as we are mad! I'd like to argue who are the mad ones?! :jiggy:

[kellyjamie]

Geoffrey,

 

a question if you dont mind??

last year we were in brissy and heard the term banana benders a few times, as a native aussie can you tell me why QLDers are called that?

thanks kelly

[fish.01]

Geoffrey,

 

a question if you dont mind??

last year we were in brissy and heard the term banana benders a few times, as a native aussie can you tell me why QLDers are called that?

thanks kelly

 

Historically women weren't allowed to work on our banana plantations so the inevitable sometimes happened....

[tracy123]

Geoffrey,

 

a question if you dont mind??

last year we were in brissy and heard the term banana benders a few times, as a native aussie can you tell me why QLDers are called that?

thanks kelly

 

Fish tells lies

 

"As far as I know all bananas are already bent, so to be a banana bender is foolish and unnecessary"!!! And as we all know Queenslands are just a tad bit slow

[olly]

Don't worry Olly when it's winter we can go up north put on our t-shirt and shorts and have a mini summer holiday while the bananna benders walk around in jumpers looking at us as we are mad! I'd like to argue who are the mad ones?! :jiggy:

 

Very true, ha ha, they do that don't they to we 'Mexicans', but after next week we are due to get up to 20C, so Spring will be in the air at last..................waiting.....waiting.........:biglaugh: