Places to live in Sydney - differences between the various areas

[Guest marco1]

Thanks for your tips Marco. I know you said Brighton is OK....does not mean south/south east is fine too?

 

Cheers

B1K3R

Sure, there are some very nice suburbs down south. Sans Souci, Como, Bonnet bay, Silvania, even Bundeena

[LKC]

We live in Woronora Heights which is a bit more out of the way than some of the other Sutherland Shire suburbs, but it is nice and quiet and family-friendly which we like. We lived in Yowie Bay previously but it was very expensive and although it was closer to shops etc, it was very noisy. We also liked Bonnet Bay, Oyster Bay and we almost bought a house in Barden Ridge but decided against it because of the landfill site (everyone who we told about the house said something along the lines of "Phew, smelly in the summer". Not sure whether that is true but it put us off a bit). We also considered Illawong which we liked. The thing that swung it for us with Woronora Heights was the proximity to the Royal National Park. It is absolutely beautiful, and has beaches that we like to visit. Hubby has weekdays as his days off from work and we can often be the only people on the beach which is perfect!

[Guest treesea]

I like Brighton, use to visit when I worked at the airport.

 

As for the other comments about suburbs in Sydney, remember that we get something like 100,000 migrants a year and most come to Sydney so suburbs can change rather fast.

Take Parramatta and Liverpool for example. Parramatta used to be a real alternative CBD and has turned into a middle eastern ghetto, and so has Liverpool. Sad really.

If you have a choice, choose eastern or Northern suburbs, or the City. Inner west is till OK as long as you don't go any further west than Stratified.

 

I remember a time when the ethnic group in Brighton-Le-Sands was predominantly Greek, but nowadays it too seems to have quite a sizable Middle Eastern population too. I suppose this reflects the fact that 4% of Sydney's population are native Arabic speakers. But given they are only 4% of the population, and also that most would live in the Lakemba/Bankstown area of Sydney, would they have much of an impact on most areas of Sydney, when considering where to live?

 

I wouldn't like to live away from the water in Sydney mainly because of the weather. Once you get inland, to places like Campbelltown, Liverpool and Penrith or even further west, like to Emu Plains, the temperature extremes are shocking. I remember one day going out to Emu Plains by train, getting on the train in the CBD where it was a balmy 30 degrees C and stepping off at Emu Plains into a 42 degrees C furnace.

 

"Sydney is not cheap yet at present there are a lot of opportunities. I bought a holiday house on the Hawkesbury river last year at the peak of the scare mongering campaign (you know the one about the sky is falling, prices are going down to half, the sea is rising to the roof tops etc) for a real bargain.

 

However, to anyone who is planing to move to Sydney unless you have done a Pizarro move already, I would say not to sell and not to buy, but to rent and get to know what you like. Not what some stranger tells you from far away. After all you are the one that must like it.

What is the point if I told you the best place to live is the City when your hobby is blacksmithing? Or I tell you buy a townhouse in Ultimo yet you love gardening and want to grow tomatoes? I live in the western suburbs not far from Liverpool yet I import machinery from the US and have a shipping container parked in my front lawn. I doubt the gentle people of Balmain or Newtown would love me much for that in their suburb.

 

Lol. If one wants a front garden, I don't think inner city Sydney has too many of those. Certainly not affordable ones, at least. We lived in Darlinghurst (next door to King's Cross) for a while - no front or back garden. That's what the Botanics and Hyde Park were for. Lovely to visit, lovely to see, thank goodness the person mowing the lawns wasn't me.

 

"Come to visit, ask lots of questions, rent for a while, you can get 6 month contracts no problem and then move. Bring nothing with you just one bag. That is the way to move places. Buy what you need and when you move sell it on e-bay.

My opinion anyway.

 

I think that's great advice if you are single or a couple without school age children. But what I found coming back here is that, once your children settle into a school, it's not so easy to change areas.

 

I thought Gladesville would have been quite a nice place to start out when we first got to Sydney. There's one place in Sydney I really loved - Hunter's Hill. On the water but not the sea - more inner harbour and much more central to everywhere than the Eastern suburbs. Prices to buy there are a bit over the top, but rentals look qwuite reasonable.

 

Talking of buying a place, there's something that could be worth investing in, once you have decided on a suburb - a postcode report. I recommend the three month online subscripton. These days it costs around $75 for a three month online subscription (on homepriceguide) and details all the sales in the postcode for the last two or three years. Postcodes cover fairly wide geographical areas, so not like Britain where you get a postcode per street.

[Guest Nikkers]

I have just been looking at properties around Sutherland and am surprised they are coming in in our price range which makes me worry it's not as nice as I thought.

 

Do you have any views of Sutherland and surrounds (seen Menai and a few others mentioned).

 

Thanks for you help.

The Shire's a good place to live, I can definitely recommend it. I have family who live there and I've been going there all my life. It's a good area to live, with a fairly low crime rate. Over the last few years, some of my friends have bought in the Shire (namely: Como, Menai, Bonnet Bay and Engadine). It's a good choice with good shopping and beaches and national parks close by.

[Guest Loopy Loo]

Thanks Treesea for a great post - this has been so helpful for me. I'm doing a reccie visit at end Feb for 5wks and have got a potential job offer based in Silverwater, which I don't know at all but get the impression its pretty industrial around there. Had some other forum members saying that Drummoyne and Balmain would be good places to look at renting - have you got any other suggestions based on your experience ? I don't want to be a zillion miles away from the CBD or from a beach/waterside and I don't want to spend a decade in the car to get to work either. Sounds easy eh ? In the event I do get a job offer, I will be coming out there on my own, so being a woman, I'd like to make sure I'm in a safe area too. I've taken a look at realestate.co.au and seen that the average rent will be around 400dollars a week for a 2 bed apart, but I guess that all depends on area etc. Any advice would be appreciated and thanks again. Regards, Elaine.

[Guest treesea]

Thanks Treesea for a great post - this has been so helpful for me. I'm doing a reccie visit at end Feb for 5wks and have got a potential job offer based in Silverwater, which I don't know at all but get the impression its pretty industrial around there. Had some other forum members saying that Drummoyne and Balmain would be good places to look at renting - have you got any other suggestions based on your experience ? I don't want to be a zillion miles away from the CBD or from a beach/waterside and I don't want to spend a decade in the car to get to work either. Sounds easy eh ? In the event I do get a job offer, I will be coming out there on my own, so being a woman, I'd like to make sure I'm in a safe area too. I've taken a look at realestate.co.au and seen that the average rent will be around 400dollars a week for a 2 bed apart, but I guess that all depends on area etc. Any advice would be appreciated and thanks again. Regards, Elaine.

 

Hi Elaine,

 

I would go east from Silverwater, rather than west or directly north. Drummoyne, near Wolseley street jetty would be good, because that jetty is the end point for one ferry line and also a stop on the Parramatta ferry. I'm not really into Concord and Strathfield. Same with Canada Bay and Mortlake. All nice enough, but a bit dull and residential. Rhodes is nice, but too isolated for my taste. I worked there for a while, near the train station, and it was a hassle to go and do things at lunch time.

 

Abbotsford, Chiswick, Drummoyne - I like all of those. Especially down near the Drummoyne ferry. And it has a great road link into the city, along Victoria Road. Birkenhead point is quite a good shopping centre, as local shopping centres go, for things like supermarket shopping.

 

On the north side of the city, so Hunters Hill, Woolwich, Gladesville, they are also nice areas to live but I would probably, if I were working in Silverwater, stick to the south side. Going from Drummoyne, you would be going against the traffic all the way, and on the freeway from Concord onwards, so probably a 20 minute to half an hour trip. From the north side, well, sometimes you have to hop in a car when you get there and try these drives, but, even though you're still going west, it isn't as straight forward and you could encounter rush hour traffic.

 

Working in Silverwater, I would plan on driving to and from work. The nearest train station is at Auburn, to the south, and definitely not walking distance to Silverwater. I'm not even sure what kind of public transport links there are out to there. It's one of those places in Sydney that people tend to drive to.

 

It's probably worthwhile to go onto google map, grab the little man on the map and go for a virtual wander around some of the streets, so you can see the various streetscapes.

[Guest treesea]

Balmain is a nice place to live, but it's a lot quicker to get to Silverwater from Drummoyne than it would be from Balmain.

[Guest Loopy Loo]

Thanks Treesea that's a fantastic help, you really do seem to know your areas ! I've taken quite a liking to Drummoyne myself and have been looking at rentals in that area. Are you still based in Sydney? What is cost of living like in general ? I'm trying to work out what I'd need per month to live on (as a single person). Any advice ? Thanks again, you'd make a great 're-locations advisor' !! Rgds, Elaine

[Guest migration angel]

For more great info on Sydney suburbs check out www.cityhobo.com

[archimickey]

Hi,

 

I've learned a lot of useful info in this post. I'm a portuguese architect currently discussing a job possibility in Sydney.

I have no idea about the cost of living in Sydney. This will be the first time i'll be living by my one, outside my parent's house. I will start earning a net salary of 80000 or 90000 /year, I live alone, have to save some $ for one trip a year around that part of the globe, and of course, to visit my folks for Christmas.

 

In which neighborhood do you think i should look for a flat (to rent) according to this salary? I would like a nice place, do yout think it would be possible somewhere with a view over the bay and the bridge?? I read those areas are the most expensive.

 

Thank you for your help

[Rallyman]

I would try to live with in a 15 - 20 min commute to work getting around sydney by road is a night mare unless you get up early to beat the traffic, I have worked all over sydney and its not getting any better , every journey you will make you will sit in a cue some where.

 

living in sans souci at present very nice place but working over in lindfield going to work approx 40 min coming home anything from 1.5 hrs up to 3+

Good luck to everyone. With their moves

[MichaelP]

Redfern full of tanked up Aborigines? Maybe in 2008. These days I think you're more likely to be accosted by a hipster who's agitated from having one too many soy lattes.

[MARYROSE02]

Hi,

 

I've learned a lot of useful info in this post. I'm a portuguese architect currently discussing a job possibility in Sydney.

I have no idea about the cost of living in Sydney. This will be the first time i'll be living by my one, outside my parent's house. I will start earning a net salary of 80000 or 90000 /year, I live alone, have to save some $ for one trip a year around that part of the globe, and of course, to visit my folks for Christmas.

 

In which neighborhood do you think i should look for a flat (to rent) according to this salary? I would like a nice place, do yout think it would be possible somewhere with a view over the bay and the bridge?? I read those areas are the most expensive.

 

Thank you for your help

 

Depending on how much you want to pay, book a hotel, furnished appartment, or a hostel like YHA close to the city, for your first couple of weeks in Sydney, then look around for either a flat OR a flat/house share. You might be better off renting a room in a house or a flat. Lots of people do that in Sydney including in my own appartment block. Guy next door is always sub-letting a room out in his two-bedroom flat. One of my friends rents a room in a house on Arthur Street, Surry Hills and I think he pays $250 a week for that. You may well find a 'room with a view' of the harbour.

 

Do you know which part of the city you are going to be living? I would consider living close to your work unless it is not a nice part to live in. 'Take home' pay of $80,000 or $90,000 is not bad. In my area - Surry Hills - which is popular with young and single people because it is so close to the city and has plenty to do, you would probably get a one-bed flat from, I'm not sure! $400 and up? I own a one bed flat and I think the rent would be somewhere in $400-500 range.

[MARYROSE02]

Redfern full of tanked up Aborigines? Maybe in 2008. These days I think you're more likely to be accosted by a hipster who's agitated from having one too many soy lattes.

 

Exactly right. There was a time a few years back when I would not go into Redfern after dark without an armed guard. But now it has achieved its potential, being so close to the City - two or three stops on the railway - and it is full of new appartment blocks, cafes, restaurants. I have no problem getting off the train at Redfern instead of Central and walking home after dark.

 

There are still one or two areas to be careful as there are some big public housing estates just to the south and east but, as I said, I am not scared walking around Redfern and I am possibly Sydney's biggest wimp!

[jasesydney]

Choosing an area in Sydney is all about what you can afford and the style of housing you seek.

 

If you want a largish house with a pool on the east or north side then be prepared to pay $1000 or more pw. Bare in mind though that some of these spots are very car dependent and traffic getting into or out of the city can be diabolical - especially to the north (where there's lots of money, lots of big cars, and few train lines). Interestingly, there are plenty of nice houses in lesser known (unfashionable?) areas for $600pw or so. The ring of suburbs around 10km out to the south and west are good places to look of you want a decent sized place not too far from the city. Many of the deco bungalows built in the 30s have nice features like high ceilings and picture rails. 2brm apartments near the city will set you back at least $700 and some of them can be very generic, but if you journey 10kms out on one of the train lines you'll be looking at $500 or so.

 

It's worth carefully checking the train lines, major bus routes and ferries before you choose your place to live. In Sydney, if you don't have good access to transport than you will be in your car all the time. Although the trains get a bad wrap from time to time they are generally a faster and an easier way to get around than buses cause the roads are pretty bad in peak hour. Some of the major hubs in the inner-west and south are very convenient with express trains getting you to the city in 15mins or so, I am thinking of places like Hurstville, Ashfield, Marrickville and Burwood. They are all very multi-culti though - with Chinese/Vietnamese dominating so you may wonder if you're in Australia or Hong Kong. These areas don't tend to have the same ethnic problems that plague many similar places in the UK though, nor do they feel like ghettos cause there's quite a bit of money about and not much public housing (certainly not like housing estates in the UK - in fact there are few areas like that in Sydney - perhaps just Waterloo south of Redfern). Food shopping, access to health and education and eating in general is quite good in these spots and housing is cheaper than the east or north (though Burwood's a bit pricey). As you head further west though, some hubs tend to attract middle eastern communites, which do have some problems. Avoid any areas around Canterbury, Lakemba, Auburn, Lidcombe, and Bankstown.

 

If money is tighter but you still want a house, then you'll be heading further west. Some of the suburbs to the far west and southwest (i.e +30km in any western direction) can get a bit grim, but some of the established ones around 25km out have big parks and other pleasant amenities, and they're okay. Parramatta comes to mind and it's not a bad place - especially if you're near Parramatta Park, although the areas just to the north around Northmead and Winston Hills are much nicer and have less apartments and more trees. Keep away from any of the areas south of Parramatta though - they are notorious for shootings and other low-life issues.

 

There are many areas in the north and south along the train lines with lovely valleys and revines full of gum trees and bird life. Have a look between Chatswood and Pymble in the north, between Epping and Hornsby in the north-west or between Hurstville and Sutherland to the south. (The north is more expensive but they all have a similar middle class suburban atmosphere). Many houses in these areas back on to these spots which can be very pleasant. Although fires concern some people, it's very very rare for Sydney houses in the middle of leafy suburbia to burn to the ground.

[Marisawright]

Bear in mind, a lot of the information in this thread is a few years old.

 

The first question is - where is your job located? That will make a big difference to where you want to live. If it's in Sydney CBD, you have more choice because all train lines and bus routes lead to Sydney.

 

Most Sydney people live out West, because it's so much cheaper, but it can also be soul-destroying because it's a long, long commute to the city, it's a long, long way from the beaches and some of the suburbs are just rows and rows of houses with no restaurants or night life. If you love the beach, the Eastern Suburbs are the best bet but be prepared to live in a tiny bedsit as rents are very very high. The "Inner West", closer to the city, is a bit cheaper but still lively and trendy - it's the area to the west of the city, as far out as Concord.

 

If you're looking for cheaper rental but still in an area which has restaurants, try Marrickville, Dulwich Hill, Lewisham.

 

Sydney isn't really a big city, it's a lot of little villages all in one place.

Hi,

 

I've learned a lot of useful info in this post. I'm a portuguese architect currently discussing a job possibility in Sydney.

I have no idea about the cost of living in Sydney. This will be the first time i'll be living by my one, outside my parent's house. I will start earning a net salary of 80000 or 90000 /year, I live alone, have to save some $ for one trip a year around that part of the globe, and of course, to visit my folks for Christmas.

 

In which neighborhood do you think i should look for a flat (to rent) according to this salary? I would like a nice place, do yout think it would be possible somewhere with a view over the bay and the bridge?? I read those areas are the most expensive.

 

Thank you for your help

[northshorepom]

Sydney isn't really a big city, it's a lot of little villages all in one place.

 

Hmm. I saw similar posted the other day but let it slide. Have to say I don't agree with this *at all*. Sydney to my mind is not a collection of villages, it's two old cities (Sydney and Parramatta) with a bunch of suburbs. The suburbs didn't grow together from old villages, they were subdivided as suburbs and it shows. Anyone who comes to Sydney and expects a "city of villages" in the way London is, for example, is in for a shock. There are a very small number of suburbs, IMO, that realistically have a village feel. About 10x that number that claim to have it, though.......

[Meg123]

Thanks all! This is a really helpful post! My husband and I are starting the visa process soon and have been glued to realestate.au, trying to find the perfect (and affordable area). There has been lots of talk on the inner west, east and north but what about slightly further south? We would prefer a bit more space and to be further away from the chaos of city living. We have no immediate plans to buy and will be renting. We’ve been looking at places like Kogarah, Oatley, Hurtsville, Cronulla and Sylvania which all seem really nice (and surprisingly affordable at $400-450pw), close to the water, shops etc and train lines. Can anyone tell us what these areas are like? They sound a little too good to be true! I’ve had a quick look at how long it takes to commute from these areas and they seem to average at 20-30 mins. What would the commute be like? Overcrowded trains that don’t run on time? We’re currently living in London so we are used to the slog of a commute but I don’t want to be swapping one crappy lifestyle for another.

 

Any advice would be much appreciated.

[NickyNook]

No idea about travel times but here's the lowdown on the suburbs:

 

Kogarah - Not that nice. Ghastly Princes Highway runs through it plus the train line cuts it in two.

 

Oatley - Very nice. Best suburb in the area. Has a gorgeous, bushy park on the river. Definitely the pick of the bunch.

 

Hurstville - You'd be hard-pressed to work out if you were in Australia or Hong Kong

 

Cronulla - nice beach, plenty of shops and restaurants. Bit of a hike to the city though

 

Sylvania - Not bad. Lots of 1970's housing some with canal frontages. Not quite as up-market as it sounds.

[northshorepom]

Not my area of the city but that seems bang on with the impressions I have of the areas

 

20-30 minutes is a bit optimistic IMO unless it's Kogarah. Cronulla is a long way on the train for example

 

You'll deffo get better value going south though, anything North Shore, Northern Beaches, Eastern Suburbs and Inner West is expensive. And I'd rather live south than west

[Marisawright]

The commute is longer than that. The train from Oatley takes about 40 minutes. From Cronulla it would be over an hour. The nice thing about that line is that it's one of the few Sydney train lines that aren't packed. I used to commute from Oatley and always got a seat (although of course it fills up later).

 

Hurstville is a rather ordinary suburb which has been taken over the by the Chinese community - don't expect to find a restaurant that isn't Chinese. I have nothing against the Chinese but I would find it overwhelming, living in an area where most of the people don't speak English and most of the shop signs are in a foreign language. Oatley is lovely, and has plenty of apartment blocks. Don't overlook Mortdale and Penshurst - they don't have the cutesy village feel, but both have more shops than Oatley and a choice of restaurants. Sylvania is a bit isolated, not handy for the train or transport, though there is a good shopping centre there (Southgate).

 

Oatley is near the river but don't expect to get a riverfront property. There are some nice walks down to the water and it's on the train line to Cronulla, but I wouldn't think of it as being "on the water". You could look at Brighton-Le-Sands, Ramsgate and Dolls Point - not so handy for the train line but there are express buses to the city, and they are right on the water.

[Marisawright]

I should have explained what I meant by that! I know Sydney didn't grow from villages, but I do think it's become a city of villages, in the sense that people don't travel outside their area. When I lived in London, my friends didn't think twice about travelling half way across the city for a party. In Sydney, if you move out of an area, good luck getting your former "friends" to come visit - it's like you've moved to another village. Not one of the friends I made on the North Shore would ever come to Oatley.

[northshorepom]

I should have explained what I meant by that! I know Sydney didn't grow from villages, but I do think it's become a city of villages, in the sense that people don't travel outside their area. When I lived in London, my friends didn't think twice about travelling half way across the city for a party. In Sydney, if you move out of an area, good luck getting your former "friends" to come visit - it's like you've moved to another village. Not one of the friends I made on the North Shore would ever come to Oatley.

 

I think there's a tipping point for how far people will go....I think it's a psychological barrier rather than a real physical one, as ever with cities divided by a large waterway it seems to be a north of the harbour/south of the harbour thing. Must admit I groan inwardly if required to do a cross-city trip. I'll go to the more northerly Eastern Suburbs but anything past Randwick would have to really be worth it.....likewise Inner West, anything south of Parramatta Rd needs to really be worth it, etc etc etc.

 

Don't think I could be bothered driving down to Oatley either unless I really had to

:wink:

[Marisawright]

I think there's a tipping point for how far people will go....I think it's a psychological barrier rather than a real physical one, as ever with cities divided by a large waterway it seems to be a north of the harbour/south of the harbour thing. Must admit I groan inwardly if required to do a cross-city trip. I'll go to the more northerly Eastern Suburbs but anything past Randwick would have to really be worth it.....likewise Inner West, anything south of Parramatta Rd needs to really be worth it, etc etc etc.

 

Don't think I could be bothered driving down to Oatley either unless I really had to

:wink:

 

You've just proved my point! I have friends in the Eastern Suburbs who won't travel to Oatley even though it would take them less than half an hour - psychologically it's too far. Yet when I was in London, I'd travel down to Kent to see friends and vice versa - over an hour's travel each way. It's funny because Aussies pride themselves on thinking nothing of distance when it comes to touring, yet they won't go more than 20 minutes from their front door. Yes, it is psychological - a village psychology.

[MARYROSE02]

You've just proved my point! I have friends in the Eastern Suburbs who won't travel to Oatley even though it would take them less than half an hour - psychologically it's too far. Yet when I was in London, I'd travel down to Kent to see friends and vice versa - over an hour's travel each way. It's funny because Aussies pride themselves on thinking nothing of distance when it comes to touring, yet they won't go more than 20 minutes from their front door. Yes, it is psychological - a village psychology.

 

Why would anyone in the Eastern Subs have ANY reason to go to Oatley? it's a nice enough 'burb, got one pub, a nice park but nothing I'd go out of my way for. Why should I when I have a 100 bars within a kilometre of where I live. Half an hour - maybe more like an hour if Sydney's roads are in their usual gridlock - Sat and Sun are as bad as during the week. Half an hour for me in Surry Hills but if I was at Bondi Beach.

 

Village psychology? Personally I hate travelling long distances especially commuting, but 30,000 people a day commute the 100 kilometres from the Central Coast to Sydney to work, probably similar numbers from Wollongong, Blue Mountains, all putting up with 1-2 hours a day each way.

 

Every holiday weekend tens of thousands of Sydneysiders drive up and down the coast for 100's of miles - idiots in my opinion, exactly the same as the Londoners who flood down to The New Forest every holiday weekend. I loved nothing less than to ride my bike to a bridge over the M27 and snigger at the ten miles tailbacks.

 

Village psychology? My brother will sometimes drive six hours to do a job and six hours back if he does not want to stay a night away from home.

 

Village psychology? My brother bought an amp on Ebay and we co-drove to Melbourne in two days there and back.

 

Village psychology? I much prefer to have a job in the city but last year I got one in Penrith which is 55-60 kilometres from Surry Hills so an hour to seventy five mins depending on which train I got from Central.

 

My brother used to come home from work on a Friday - which might have meant driving anywhere from Cronulla to Palm Beach, then drive up to Newcastle for a gig.