Still Struggling with Perth after 12 years

[flag of convenience]

Thanks to everyone for their replies.

 

 

To answer previous posters:

 

We have considered the UK, but have recently heard lots of stories of people moving back and then returning to Australia. Australia has given us so much as a family, so we want to give it our best shot. If the likes of Brisbane and Melbourne (or Tassie) don't meet our expectations, we will consider the UK.

 

We have now lived in 8 suburbs in Perth, in search mainly of a community feel, and to try and feel a bit more settled, with no luck. We have made a conscious effort to live in suburbs that are not full of Brits, but to be honest, we find the West Aussies friendly to a point, but they don't really let you in unless there is somethng in it for them. If I had a dollar for the amount of times we have heard the saying "must invite you round for a barbie", which never happens. We are very sociable and have invited neighbours and other West Assies around for drnks etc but these invites are not reciprocated. You begin to think it is you after a while but I have heard similar stories from others. I travel to the east coast a bit through work and definitely notice the east coast aussies to be a lot friendliey to.

 

Thanks to the recommendations on Sydney. I have found Sydney to be a bit brash and plastic at times (although I admit I have not lived there).

 

A lot of people who bag Perth go on about the heat, the flies, the isolation, the high cost of liviing, but we were aware of most of these through research before we came, so can't complain about these things. The sense of community is something that sadly lacks for us, as too many people retreat behind their garage doors at night, not to be seen until the door goes up the next day. Also, not sure if it is just us or not, but we hardly ever see kids playing in the street here, or many people in the street, which has been the same in the 12 years we have been here - we find this very weird.

 

 

e Mornington Peninsula an hour south of Melbourne is lovely and is much favored by Brits.

 

I agree on your points. Perth sadly can feel very suffocating and suites a certain type of person. Even so a good number I knew have moved on from the 90's in fact by far the majority. It probably is the less suited city to what you are searching although just how different the other cities are is debatable. I'd probably go along with Melbourne but folks I stayed with there and had lived there a number of decades after arriving from Europe, didn't on all appearances have a too dissimilar life from the burbs of Perth.

I found Fitzroy didn't have the buzz to the degree expected at night. Still ok though but not of course to the degree of London or many European cities. Not sure if any less cliquey either. You would really have to spend time there to get a true picture and it would be a change from Perth.

[flag of convenience]

Hi all

 

As a family, we have really struggled with Perth. We are really jealous of those people who love Perth and are able to call it home, as we hate this continual unsettled feeling of knowing Perth is not for us. Perth gets a bit of a bashing on PIO, and we want to avoid it in this post. It would appreciated if we could hear from others who moved from Perth and whether it cured them. At the moment, our options are Brisbane and Melbourne. I get a lot of negative feedback when I mention both cities - people mention the humidity in Brisbane, and the traffic, as well as the rednecks. With Melbourne, people mention the overcrowding, the weather and the traffic and poor public transport.

 

Rather than mention the shortcomings of Perth, we would rather concentrate on what we would be seeking comparitively from a City, as follows:

 

 

 

 

• Abit more greenery and a few more hills and a bit more scenery, maybe with some rivers and streams ( I know I could be pushing it here);

• A few more options for day trips and weekend trips;

• A few more wordly people

• A bit more of an international feel

• A bit more vibe and buzz

• A more integrated public transport system, allowing you to have a night out without being at the mercy of the taxis

• A place where people don't retire for the night at 8.30

• More of a student vibe and university scene for my kids

• More of a community spirit, where people don't drive into their garages and you never see them again

• A place where people go out and socialise more than entertain at home

 

 

We appreciate we are looking for a lot here. All feedback appreciated. Thanks for reading.

 

I'm not at all sure how many of the above wishes you'll be able to fulfil. Pretty much akin to a lot I'd like to see around me but long ago concluded it isn't about to happen, so just get on with it. I think we have decided pretty much to leave Australia for much those reasons. Will maintain a base in Perth and could cope with a few months a year here but live elsewhere for a fuller life. Europe would suit a lot of your wants but not so practical for all.

[Tina2]

Like others what i got from your post was a discription more suiting the UK. Aus is different, Australians are different. To get as close to what you want as possible you do need to be in the inner city or with in 10 or 15 minuets and that is going to be expencive, but that is where you will find the older suburbs and more of the community fe el you are looking for. As you move further out be that Melbourne, Sydney, or Brisbane it gets cheaper but it also gets hotter and many of the newer suburbs do have people who drive straight into there garage at night, simply because they have had a long working day, and a long commute home and simply want to get inside and relax. On weekend they are busy shopping, running kids to sport or mowing that sort of thing. Sure the inner city has that busy buzz but it also has a fair bit of trouble as well.

Lived in Brisbane for many many years and was lucky to live in the Western Suburbs just 10 minuets from the city center and for us it is a much smaller city than Melbourne or Sydney but it still has that buzz, good schools, parks and the like and easy to escape to Sunshine Coast or Gold Coast or up into the hinterland. As i said the thing you have to come to terms with is this is Australia and it is very different to the UK. In the UK drive 20 minuets and you go through no end of little villages with things to see and do, outside of the city drive 20 minuets here and you may well see little more than dry bush and a few kangaroos. I know how if feels to be so unsettled Your heart is telling you something your brain really does not want to here. I wish you luck and hope you find what you are looking for.

[flag of convenience]

Inner City in the case of Perth doesn't make a great deal of difference in the sense of community. Remains very individual and rather closed. Still plenty of space to maintain a degree of avoidance. A very self absorbed lot.

[Quoll]

I'd be saying UK with that list as well! Cambridge certainly ticks all of those boxes! Of the two you mentioned, probably Melbourne but you could look at Canberra - it has about as many non ticks as Melbourne. You might hit a bit of community feel there if you work at it.

[everywhere gal]

so sorry buddy4 cant come up with your criteria as they're exactly the reason we, a pom with oz citizenship and an aussie with irish citizenship want to return to a life in the UK

we are in a different age era no doubt than you, but i would opt for Melbourne, and thats from a sydney born and bred gal..good luck

[Marisawright]

I'd be saying UK with that list as well! Cambridge certainly ticks all of those boxes! Of the two you mentioned, probably Melbourne but you could look at Canberra - it has about as many non ticks as Melbourne. You might hit a bit of community feel there if you work at it.

 

I've heard that too. I think it's hard to make real friends in any new country, because people's best friends are generally people they went to school or uni with. You come in as a mature adult and it's hard to break into those circles. Whereas Canberra has a large population of incomers so there are plenty of other people in the same boat.

[Marisawright]

Thanks to the recommendations on Sydney. I have found Sydney to be a bit brash and plastic at times (although I admit I have not lived there).

 

... Also, not sure if it is just us or not, but we hardly ever see kids playing in the street here, or many people in the street, which has been the same in the 12 years we have been here - we find this very weird.

.

 

Yes, Sydney can be brash and plastic sometimes! You won't see kids playing in the street here either - everyone is terrified to let their kids play outside for fear of 'stranger danger', they all get ferried about everywhere and locked in their backyards. There's no justification for it (rates of crime are lower than ever) but the media has stirred up a lot of hysteria.

 

As for Sydneysiders being friendlier - yes people are sociable, but I've been here over 30 years and I'm sure that when I leave, I'll never hear from most of my Sydney "friends" ever again. Whereas I still correspond with friends I met living in the Victorian bush when I first arrived.

 

I don't know whether the same applies to other Aussie cities or not. I know one woman who retired to Adelaide, and came back to Sydney a few years later because she found it impossible to make any friends at all.

[Wellers and Whitehead]

Yes, Sydney can be brash and plastic sometimes! You won't see kids playing in the street here either - everyone is terrified to let their kids play outside for fear of 'stranger danger', they all get ferried about everywhere and locked in their backyards. There's no justification for it (rates of crime are lower than ever) but the media has stirred up a lot of hysteria.

 

As for Sydneysiders being friendlier - yes people are sociable, but I've been here over 30 years and I'm sure that when I leave, I'll never hear from most of my Sydney "friends" ever again. Whereas I still correspond with friends I met living in the Victorian bush when I first arrived.

 

I don't know whether the same applies to other Aussie cities or not. I know one woman who retired to Adelaide, and came back to Sydney a few years later because she found it impossible to make any friends at all.

 

just read this, all I can think of about justification into children's safety and stranger danger is the NSW police/endangered and missing children site issue a lot alerts about potential abductions/missing children.

[Guest Guest 47403]

Yes, Sydney can be brash and plastic sometimes! You won't see kids playing in the street here either - everyone is terrified to let their kids play outside for fear of 'stranger danger', they all get ferried about everywhere and locked in their backyards. There's no justification for it (rates of crime are lower than ever) but the media has stirred up a lot of hysteria.

 

 

 

I think that's the same most places you don't see kids out in the street in the UK either just a sign of the times, my daughter is 8 and not allowed to play out, at 8 I left the house after breakfast and come home for tea.

[Peach]

I think that's the same most places you don't see kids out in the street in the UK either just a sign of the times, my daughter is 8 and not allowed to play out, at 8 I left the house after breakfast and come home for tea.

 

But, in the UK did you live in a house with enormous garden, play equipment and often a pool? Kids don't need to play in the street here...

[Guest Ptp113]

I've heard that too. I think it's hard to make real friends in any new country, because people's best friends are generally people they went to school or uni with. You come in as a mature adult and it's hard to break into those circles. Whereas Canberra has a large population of incomers so there are plenty of other people in the same boat.

 

And the highest educated, highest income, community. Not forgetting more people in Canberra come from somewhere else than any other city/town in Australia, so they understand outsiders.

[Marisawright]

just read this, all I can think of about justification into children's safety and stranger danger is the NSW police/endangered and missing children site issue a lot alerts about potential abductions/missing children.

 

Well that's a reason rather than a justification. Apparently there are fewer abductions and assaults now than there were 20 years ago, they're just publicising them more.

[Guest Guest 47403]

But, in the UK did you live in a house with enormous garden, play equipment and often a pool? Kids don't need to play in the street here...

 

Fair one but I'm sure not everyone in Australia lives in a house with enormous garden, play equipment and often a pool.

[Johndoe]

But, in the UK did you live in a house with enormous garden, play equipment and often a pool? Kids don't need to play in the street here...

 

It's not just that either. I know of kids of that age who head to the nearest park/skateboard area/shopping mal/movies/beach with their peer age group.............mum/dad may drop 'em off/pick 'em up, but apart from that, I find kids to be pretty independent with regards to their "play".

[Wellers and Whitehead]

But, in the UK did you live in a house with enormous garden, play equipment and often a pool? Kids don't need to play in the street here...

 

Not everybody can afford to live in a house in oz, so therefore no garden, no pool.

[Guest Guest 47403]

It's not just that either. I know of kids of that age who head to the nearest park/skateboard area/shopping mal/movies/beach with their peer age group.............mum/dad may drop 'em off/pick 'em up, but apart from that, I find kids to be pretty independent with regards to their "play".

 

That's a fair point the provision of parks etc does seem better than in the UK.

[Peach]

Not everybody can afford to live in a house in oz, so therefore no garden, no pool.

 

No, they just need to have one mate that does... Like Johndoe, I see plenty of kids on the loose. I just think the notion of 'locked in the back yard' is poppycock.

[starlight7]

A few weeks in Perth was enough for me. Congratulations on your staying power and I am sure Melbourne would give you what you want- leafy Eastern suburbs near a train line?

[fish.01]

Hi all

 

... our options are Brisbane and Melbourne. I get a lot of negative feedback when I mention both cities - people mention the humidity in Brisbane, and the traffic, as well as the rednecks. With Melbourne, people mention the overcrowding, the weather and the traffic and poor public transport.

 

Rather than mention the shortcomings of Perth, we would rather concentrate on what we would be seeking comparitively from a City, as follows:

 

 

 

• Abit more greenery and a few more hills and a bit more scenery, maybe with some rivers and streams ( I know I could be pushing it here);

• A few more options for day trips and weekend trips;

• A few more wordly people

• A bit more of an international feel

• A bit more vibe and buzz

• A more integrated public transport system, allowing you to have a night out without being at the mercy of the taxis

• A place where people don't retire for the night at 8.30

• More of a student vibe and university scene for my kids

• More of a community spirit, where people don't drive into their garages and you never see them again

• A place where people go out and socialise more than entertain at home

 

 

 

We appreciate we are looking for a lot here. All feedback appreciated. Thanks for reading.

 

 

I live in the inner west of Brisbane and don't have issues with traffic or "rednecks" though like all cities I'm sure you could find both. Our immediate neighbours are mostly very nice and progressive people and far more interesting than me. Being in queensland Brisbane may be slightly more conservative overall than comparable cities, but it has a huge mix like any other city with plenty of people of all types. The whole regional queenslander redneck stereo-type is often lazily dumped onto Brisbane as well but in my day to day life I don't see it except in the comments section of the local tabloid...though like any city it exists in parts and will come down to the life you choose for yourself at home and at work.

 

The mix here suits me at this stage in that I can live 4km from the city close to buzzy places amongst character and history but also live in an affordable family home in a beautiful green area with hills, mountains, creeks and animals all around us. This wouldn't be possible in Melbourne. The bigger cities like Melbourne will be buzzier and more exciting but will be more expensive, cold, flat and concreted over so close to the city but maybe further out might work ? ... it really is a case of finding the right balance of man-made and nature that suits I guess and that we can afford. You might find this in either place.

 

Transport wise we personally are probably lucky that we have a bus that runs 24 hours on Fri and Sat and 18 hours all other days (every 10 mins in peak, every 15 mins off-peak and every 30mins after midnight). Plus another 5+ routes that pass as well. Again where you live will dictate how good PT it is...can range from great to terrible and Melbourne's tram system is great if you're on the right line and they have many fantastic buzzy inner city areas far better than Brisbane.

 

Brisbane city and surrounds always seems busy these days but you will still find lots of "drive in the garage and never see them again" estates further out that you will want to avoid. Same in Melbourne with it's unfortunate massive sprawl but it's buzzy areas spread far further out from the CBD along the tram lines. I ride my bike to work but when I do occasionally go in peak traffic it always seems ok to me for the size of the city but that might be where I live. I think Sydney and Melbourne would be far worse on average from what I've read and being larger cities.

 

Looking at your list I think on balance Melbourne might be your preference but if you do check out Brisbane, areas like Toowong, Paddington, Rosalie, Bulimba, Teneriffe, Hill End, Red Hill, Bardon, Ashgrove may suit...Melbourne would have plenty of great areas to check out depending on budget.

 

 

"maybe with some rivers and streams ( I know I could be pushing it here);"

 

 

This is our local one...does this count as a stream ?

 

 

Untitled by fish.2, on Flickr

Edited January 19, 2014 by fish.01

[bunbury61]

Hi all

 

As a family, we have really struggled with Perth. We are really jealous of those people who love Perth and are able to call it home, as we hate this continual unsettled feeling of knowing Perth is not for us. Perth gets a bit of a bashing on PIO, and we want to avoid it in this post. It would appreciated if we could hear from others who moved from Perth and whether it cured them. At the moment, our options are Brisbane and Melbourne. I get a lot of negative feedback when I mention both cities - people mention the humidity in Brisbane, and the traffic, as well as the rednecks. With Melbourne, people mention the overcrowding, the weather and the traffic and poor public transport.

 

Rather than mention the shortcomings of Perth, we would rather concentrate on what we would be seeking comparitively from a City, as follows:

 

 

 

 

• Abit more greenery and a few more hills and a bit more scenery, maybe with some rivers and streams ( I know I could be pushing it here);

• A few more options for day trips and weekend trips;

• A few more wordly people

• A bit more of an international feel

• A bit more vibe and buzz

• A more integrated public transport system, allowing you to have a night out without being at the mercy of the taxis

• A place where people don't retire for the night at 8.30

• More of a student vibe and university scene for my kids

• More of a community spirit, where people don't drive into their garages and you never see them again

• A place where people go out and socialise more than entertain at home

 

 

We appreciate we are looking for a lot here. All feedback appreciated. Thanks for reading.

 

 

I was about to say it , but I wont :biggrin:

[MARYROSE02]

After living for twelve years in a place, you might actually miss it, if you move. Some of the things you mention, rivers, streams, hills, are not the sort of things you can talk to, be friends with. Some of the things you don't like sound like typical suburbia - where people make their lives in their homes. Sounds like my brother's life in the Sydney suburbs. You may well enjoy the inner-city lifestyle in Sydney, living in a terrace house or a flat, with a host of restaurants, pubs, clubs, cafes, all on your doorstep. I don't know if there is more of a community spirit here than in the suburbs.

[bunbury61]

But, in the UK did you live in a house with enormous garden, play equipment and often a pool? Kids don't need to play in the street here...

 

No pool ...we have a decent sized garden with no hidden dangers ....but kids have a smorgasbord of choice here ....London next weekend ...its not better or worse , just different

My kids don't hang around on the streets either ....dance classes ...golf ....and my youngests favourite past time ..shopping .

They have seen the videos from family in oz , and they aint interested ...which actually surprised me .

My eldest is Australian , and I thought there would be some attatchment to the place of her birth ....not in the slightest

 

Not at your local shops either , we are talking oxford st and regent st

[Guest]

Whether humidity is or isn't a problem is very subjective.

 

I used to visit my best friend up there at least twice a year. I found the humidity unbearable, and I'm used to Sydney weather so it's not like I'm not used to humid weather.

 

I'm not sure when you were visiting, but outside of summer the humidity usually isn't a problem. This summer has been an issue for me only a couple of days, and it's worth it for the great weather the rest of the year.

I've actually found the weather way more uncomfortable in Melbourne with its highs and lows than ever in Brisbane.

 

Sydney seems to always rain when i'm there but could have just got very unlucky with my timing.

[Marisawright]

I'm not sure when you were visiting, but outside of summer the humidity usually isn't a problem. This summer has been an issue for me only a couple of days, and it's worth it for the great weather the rest of the year.

I've actually found the weather way more uncomfortable in Melbourne with its highs and lows than ever in Brisbane.

 

Sydney seems to always rain when i'm there but could have just got very unlucky with my timing.

 

Yes, when it rains in Sydney it really rains. The first time I saw the rain in Sydney, I thought it was a monsoon! But it rains a lot less in Sydney than in Melbourne. We have higher rainfall in total, but it falls in big heavy rain showers which are over quickly - no such thing as drizzle!

 

We were usually visiting in the school holidays, so December/January/February.