Hello all,
First post on here regarding the Vetassess Electrical Test. I've just had word that I passed
The day is split into 4 parts, here's a run down of what I had to do..
Part 1: Basic Wiring. You have to fit a DB on a pylwood board, there's a single socket to wire under it using conduit. You then have to fit a couple of pipe clips for the small cutting of copper pipe to replicate the main service bonding. There's a couple of 1G2W switches to wire and a light, these are all on a layout diagram just follow the dimensions given. You have to do an R2 and IR test on the installation so know that R2 max is 0.5ohms and IR is 1Mohm minimum. It's really straight forward.
Part 2: Motors. You have to start by drawing either a Star or Delta winding symbol in your workbook then there's a picture of motor connections and you have to draw how you would connect up the other way (I drew a Delta winding then drew the Star connection, it'll be clear to you on the day trust me). You're then asked to draw a motor control circuit ie L1 to Stop/Start unit, through the holding contact etc etc so swat up on how to do this, it's easy enough. Once you've drawn out all this you then have to connect up the control circuit. All the components are fitted on a white board with the terminals extended to female terminals and you get male leads to plug in, again this will become clear on the day. The assessor then asks you to take a walk and puts a fault in the circuit, my Stop/Start unit was bypassed so Stop Button done nothing, he just asked to rectify the fault.
Part 3: Safe Isolation/Disconnect. This was the part I was dreading the most as the Vetassess guide is not the best. On the day our assessor said don't worry about the proceedure too much just show me you can do your job safely. It was a tubular heater that had given someone a shock. I tested the casing for live (you get a 'know power source' to prove from), tested the circuit for live (there is a switched fuse spur which has a conduit through box coming from it, this is where you do all your testing from), informed him I was going to isolate/lock off etc, he then says the heater has been replaced. I then proved the circuit was still isolated, carried out an R2/IR test on the heater (same values as Part 1), connected the heater and deisolated. Remember to prove your deadline tester before and after!
Part 4: Question Paper. This was a pain in the arse as some of the questions were a nightmare ie What kind of motor is used in a refrigerator??? It's a multiple choice paper that's split into 6 parts and you only need 3 out of 4 in each section. Once you've finished your assessor will mark it and tick the correct answers and ask you to have a look at any wrong ones.
My advice would be don't overthink this before the day as I was really worried about the isolation etc but it's really straight forward. They're looking for boys that don't have a clue so just keep calm and follow your workbook and you'll be fine.
Any questions just ask, all the best.
