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Places to live in Sydney - differences between the various areas


Guest treesea

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Guest treesea

Been reading quite a few comments about Sydney, and some not very good experiences, so thought I would add my thoughts about the different areas to live in Sydney, and their advantages/disadvantages

 

In a nutshell, the eastern and northern suburbs are well off, likewise some of the southern suburbs. The further south west you go, the poorer it gets.

 

The eastern suburbs, so between the CBD and the beach, on the CBD side of the bridge, are the most expensive. Places along the harbour, like Watsons Bay, Vaucluse, Double Bay, Elizabeth Bay, are especially expensive. Veryu nice places to live mind you, if you have the dosh. On the ocean side, Bondi, imho, is a bit overrated for the price, though I have lived there and enjoyed it. Lots of good cafes, a good place to brunch on a Sunday. Bronte, Coogee Beach and Maroubra, the beach suburbs going south of Bondi, are all pretty nice places to live. Something to keep in mind though. The train service terminates at Bondi Junction. So if working in the CBD and wanting to take public transport (the sensible choice, because parking in the city is terrible and expensive), you would get a bus from the beachside suburbs and then the train from Bondi Junction.

 

The northern suburbs, especial betwen the Pacific Highway and the sea, are pretty nice. On the ocean side, Manly has good transport links (ferry, and buses as a back up in case fog closes down the ferry) but going north, through Dee Why and on up to Palm beach, if you have to commute from there, that means driving, and it is a seriously long haul from there, in the rush hour, to get to the CBD.

 

Directly north, suburbs like Turramurra and Warringal are expensive but very bush and country style compared to in closer to the city. On a direct line west from Turramurra, about 15 or 20km west, is Castle Hill. Good quality, big houses. Too far from the city for me, but a nice place to live. Beware Lane Cove. Lovely to look at and visit, especially for picnics down by the Lane Cove River, but if you don't fancy a bush fire right next door, don't go there. Some idiot always seems to set fire to it in the fire season.

 

Going west from the city, the Parramatta Road is a horrible drive if you have to commute to the city each day. If you are living out that way, it's better to catch a train in. Strathfield is very nice, as is Burwood, and close to good schools, private and state.

 

Coming closer into the city, Dulwich Hill/parts of Canterbury, Lakemba tend to be where a lot of middle eastern families live. The main mosque is in Lakemba. Marrickville is quite Chinese/Vietnamese.

 

To the south west of the city you have areas like Campbelltown, Liverpool, Cabramatta, and directly west of the city , far beyond Parramatta, you get to Penrith, and then to Emu Plains which is at the foot of the Blue Mountains. These areas have cheap housing, but this is suburbia with a capital S. In summer these areas are seriously hot, as in 40 degrees C, schooling is very so so, - just dull and boring. And far from the sea.

 

On the south side, Cronulla has a great beach and very good train links into the city. Brighton is nice too. Coming back towards the city, I wouldn't live somewhere like Petersham or Alexandria though - small terrace houses and right underneath the flight path for Sydney airport.

 

Redfern is not such a good area to live. It has a large population of Aborigines and they can get fairly tanked up on the booze. I wouldn't as a lone woman, get off and walk from Redfern station at night. Likewise from central station. Inner city, they may both be, but not such a good walk to and from the city. They remind me of somewhere like Hulme in Manchester or Muirhouse here in Edinburgh.

 

Avoid Kings Cross and Darlinghurst. These are inner city but on the east side, and are the red light districts.

 

If you fancy the inner city on the east side, Paddington is a lovely area to live, though a bit pricey and not really value for money. Just up from Paddington, Woollahra is very nice - lots of good antique shops there. Both have good bus links into the city.

 

On the inner west side, my favourite part of town is Balmain. Brilliant cafes, good transport links (ferry and bus) to town. Though, if you fancy the ferry, my advice is to live down at the point, near the main terminus, and not on the west side near the Thamse street stop. The west side ferries don't always turn up. Going back towards the city, Rozelle is okay, but not as nice as Balmain - poky houses. Pyrmont and Ultimo are quite grainy. In a way they are trendy, but basically they are converted or redeveloped factories. We lived in Ultimo for a time, and I found the flats were solid but didn't have good air flow. No good parks nearby. Not a very nice walk into town. Going away again, along Parramatta Road, Glebe is a nice place to live. Opposite Sydney University, so well situated if you want to study. Good cafes.

 

Right in the city, I always fancied living in The Rocks (the area underneath Sydney Harbour Bridge. Good night life but a bit hairy if walking home alone at night.

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Guest J.Hornby

Hi, really enjoyed reading your post. We are only just starting out in visa process but are considering both Queensland and NSW for a base. My cousin lives in Rhodes and showed us some lovely areas (loved Balmain and Mona Vale, Valcluse, Manly, etc) but I know we could not afford to live there. My husband is a roofer, I am a housing officer and we have a 10 year old daughter. I don't know where to begin in terms of identifying a suitable place that is realistic for our needs but we did love it near the beaches. I have also been converted to the idea of apartments since our trip which was a revalation.

Queensland would probably offer us more affordable accommodation but I don't know if I could cope with the constant humidity. We really want to be in NSW but I suppose it comes down to cost. I need the nicest area on a budget near the sea. Not much to ask, eh?

Thanks for your time

Joanne

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I would love Birsbane but we think the jobs are more likely to be around Sydney.

 

We will have about $600,000 we think, if all goes well. We are looking for 4 bedrooms, 2 loos, and pref a pool. So....looking around real estate we are probably going to have to go to Penrith or out that way (had no idea it got that hot though!) or Sutherland.

 

I have just been looking at properties around Sutherland and am surprised they are coming in in our price range which makes me worry it's not as nice as I thought.

 

Do you have any views of Sutherland and surrounds (seen Menai and a few others mentioned).

 

Thanks for you help.

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Guest treesea
Queensland would probably offer us more affordable accommodation but I don't know if I could cope with the constant humidity. - J. Hornby

 

Yes, that is the only thing that put me off Queensland, the humidity. Plus the worry in the sea about sharks and jellyfish. The latter is why I never lived up in Palm beach and the northern beaches when we lived in Sydney, even though I loved the area.

 

I would love Brisbane but we think the jobs are more likely to be around Sydney. - Buddy's Mum

I don't know about that. Queensland is a pretty rich state, and has plenty of inwards migration, including from around Australia. The unemployment rate is Queensland as a whole is really low. I am not sure what the latest figures are but as recently as 2007 it was hovering around 3.5% - which is basically full employment and skills shortages.

 

Do you have any views of Sutherland and surrounds (seen Menai and a few others mentioned).

 

I recommend checking out www.sutherlandshireaustralia.com.au If you go onto the map on this site and just blow it up to about 120% or so, it will be easier to follow my comments. Not Menai - too far inland, as hot as hell in the summer and not on a good train route. My preference is for Cronulla, because I like to live right on the sea and because Cronulla has a fantastic train link into the city. Check out the areas near the train line would be my advice. Avoid Kurnell - that's where the oil refinery is. Sylvania is a very nice place to live. Anywhere on the Sutherland shire side along the Georges River is pretty nice. Sutherland is on the right side of Sydney airport, - a quick 20 min or so drive north) and the snowfields - living that side of Sydney if you like skiing would take a good three quarters of an hour off the journey. There's a lot of artists, writers , creative people living in Sutherland. Gymea has some nice cafes. Como is a good place to live. Woronora would be too isolated for me. Too much worry about bush fires. Loftus, Engadie and Heathcote are a bit far away from the city for me. I prefer up around the river. Or Cronulla. Mmm, going along the beach for a late night run or walk is a pretty nice experience, especially on a hot night.

 

On the subject of trains, this site is worth checking out. www.cityrail.com. Trains from Cronulla run at least every half hour. The hub, though, is Sutherland. Sutherland, because it is at the convergence of two lines, has trains running every 6 to 15 minutes, or so.

 

On the city side of the Goerges river, Penshurst and Hurstville have quite nice pockets to live. And as for Sutherland, very good rail links.

 

For house prices, try www.realestate.com.au It's worth keeping in mind though, when looking at price guides, that most property is sold at auction, on site. So prices could be 20% above the list price. Plus, if you need a mortgage and you want to avoid having to pay the bank's mortgage insurance, you need a minimum of 20% deposit. And avoid buying a house with an asbestos roof. It's a huge hassle to replace it - this I know from direct experience.

 

$600K would get you something quite nice around Sutherland. Not sure if it would stretch to a pool, but you should be able to get a four bedroom house.

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Great post, really nice to have people say positive things and still be respectful about the things they didn't like or areas they think are bad...thanks, i enjoyed reading this....

 

I live in Rushcutters bay, [eastern suberb], work in Darlinhurst, kings cross, Chatswood and the CBD...work as an area manager for a 24 hour cafe chain, and have just finally bought an apartment in East Redfern.

 

 

The best places to live would be the Eastern Suberbs for sure...but you will be surprised when you start looking in other areas that are suppost to be bad ares, how nice they actually are, nothing compared to the bad areas in the uk.

It is a city so you are going to find the same goings on as any other city, but as i said before, very tame compared to the Uk cities.

 

 

Rushcutters is the most beautiful place ive ever lived in, in fact to me the whole of Sydney is....certain areas like Darlinhurst and Kings cross are very seedy and not so nice, but i never feel threatened and reguly work very early and late nights in these areas. There is always a great police presence so it does help...ive never seen any real problems that would make me afraid to be there, mainly just the drunks and addicks fighting and shouting between themselfs...they dont really bother the public.

 

East redfern is very differnt to Redfern itself, it is so beautiful, wide avenues with big trees lining them....full of young people, families, cafes, great little shops....It feels like your set back from the city, very relaxing area, but really your about 15 minutes from the city, veiws from a heigh up arrartment is amazing!!

 

 

 

I love the fact that Sydney is very easy to walk around, you can walk through all these different areas, see different things, people, shops,cafes, every area is different, and i find this very interesting.

 

For me ive never felt scared or threatend, ive only ever felt grateful to be living in a great city that offers so much choice to everyone that comes here.

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Guest treesea

Talking about flats reminds me of something. Most the flats here in the UK, I notice, don't tend to have balconies, but if you do get a flat in Australia, make sure it has a balcony. Over here in the UK, it doesn't seem to matter so much, but I've tried it in Oz, and over there a flat without a balcony is a recipe for being miserable imho.

 

East Redfern was still in an unrenovated, dilapidated state when I was last living in Sydney, - the same with Alexandria, just to the south of Redfern, which nowadays, I saw on my last visit, has become quite gentrified. I would imagine the cost of buying in either of those areas these days wouldn't exactly be cheap or budget. Rushcutter's Bay, or Potts Point though, with a flat facing the harbour.... and a balcony well placed to watch the New Years Eve fireworks from.... that's an area I could definitely come to terms with as a place to live.

 

I haven't seen these back in the UK, but one place we lived in, when we were in Sydney, was a terrace house, which just had a small bit of yard at the back, but it had an outdoor spa pool. It was Great, and I mean that with a capital G, especially in the winter. To anyone buying a place in Oz, I can definitely recommend a spa pool as an worthwhile outdoor addition :-)

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Talking about flats reminds me of something. Most the flats here in the UK, I notice, don't tend to have balconies, but if you do get a flat in Australia, make sure it has a balcony. Over here in the UK, it doesn't seem to matter so much, but I've tried it in Oz, and over there a flat without a balcony is a recipe for being miserable imho.

 

East Redfern was still in an unrenovated, dilapidated state when I was last living in Sydney, - the same with Alexandria, just to the south of Redfern, which nowadays, I saw on my last visit, has become quite gentrified. I would imagine the cost of buying in either of those areas these days wouldn't exactly be cheap or budget. Rushcutter's Bay, or Potts Point though, with a flat facing the harbour.... and a balcony well placed to watch the New Years Eve fireworks from.... that's an area I could definitely come to terms with as a place to live.

 

I haven't seen these back in the UK, but one place we lived in, when we were in Sydney, was a terrace house, which just had a small bit of yard at the back, but it had an outdoor spa pool. It was Great, and I mean that with a capital G, especially in the winter. To anyone buying a place in Oz, I can definitely recommend a spa pool as an worthwhile outdoor addition :-)

 

Yea, your right, you really do need a balcony in OZ....most do come with them though so its good....i find the appartments over here are compleatly differnt to the uk. Here most appartments come within a complex and have swimming pools, spas...the one i have just bought is in an amazing complex with its own shops and delis, pool, gym,spa...your looking at around $4/5k for an appartment in either area now...are you living back in the UK, or in Sydney now?...

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Guest tenquidder

Hi Treesea

 

That's quite a good summary, although maybe a bit unfair to lump Pyrmont in with Ultimo. Yes, they're next to each other, and they're both ex-industrial. Pyrmont, at least, is on the harbour, and much of the old industrial harbourside is now public parkland. It's quite a pleasant stroll along the foreshores of Pyrmont Bay (if you ignore the casino). Plus you can walk to the city in about 10 minutes via Pyrmont Bridge / Darling Harbour, which is definitely more scenic than via Broadway or the old Sydney markets.

 

Btw, I live in Pyrmont.

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Guest treesea

Does Pyrmont still have the fish market? If yes, this is defintely worth a visit. In the years I lived in Sydney, we feasted on fare from that place. Crab, lobster, king prawns, oysters by the dozen, whole fish (which steamed Chinese style, with shallots and ginger and light soya sauce, tasted absolutely scrumptious)....

 

Yes, I remember that bridge. Very busy with rush hour traffic in the mornings. It's one not so good thing about Sydney.Other than from The Rocks, which is right in town anyway, and can be a bit grotty. I liked living in Glebe and Ultimo, but walking to the city along Broadway from Glebe, with all the traffic fumes to go with it, wasn't exactly "relaxing and invigorating". Coming from the Eastern side, so through Hyde Park,would be better. It's good all the land around the harbour at Pyrmont is now parkland.

 

If you are living in one of these new build type apartments in the inner city in Sydney, be careful about airflow. We lived in one such apartment in Ultimo, two storey, two balconies, good views. But it only had windows on the one, balcony side. It was impossible to get air flowing properly through that apartment.

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Guest tenquidder
Does Pyrmont still have the fish market? If yes, this is defintely worth a visit. In the years I lived in Sydney, we feasted on fare from that place. Crab, lobster, king prawns, oysters by the dozen, whole fish (which steamed Chinese style, with shallots and ginger and light soya sauce, tasted absolutely scrumptious)....

 

Yes, I remember that bridge. Very busy with rush hour traffic in the mornings. It's one not so good thing about Sydney.Other than from The Rocks, which is right in town anyway, and can be a bit grotty. I liked living in Glebe and Ultimo, but walking to the city along Broadway from Glebe, with all the traffic fumes to go with it, wasn't exactly "relaxing and invigorating". Coming from the Eastern side, so through Hyde Park,would be better. It's good all the land around the harbour at Pyrmont is now parkland.

 

If you are living in one of these new build type apartments in the inner city in Sydney, be careful about airflow. We lived in one such apartment in Ultimo, two storey, two balconies, good views. But it only had windows on the one, balcony side. It was impossible to get air flowing properly through that apartment.

Yes, I live around the corner from the Fish Markets and it's fantastic. There's no traffic on the Pyrmont Bridge other than pedestrians and the odd cyclist. Maybe you're thinking of the Anzac Bridge or the Western Distributor (both good places to stay away from in peak hour).

 

I've no direct experience of the Rocks, but I know a couple of people who live there, and it seems OK as long as you take sensible precautions as you would anywhere else. Coming to town from the eastern side would involve coming through somewhere like Darlinghurst or Surry Hills, and while I've nothing against either of those places, I'm not sure the air quality is brilliantly superior to that of Glebe. Having said that, I don't think air pollution is a serious problem in Sydney overall, although I take your point about Broadway.

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  • 9 months later...

Thanks Treesea for you most amazing 1st post! It's really helped me :-)

I'm moving to Sydney in 3 weeks with my 2 best mates 4 2yrs and are looking to live in the CBD, with your help were going to look into living in Paddington, Woollahra and The Rocks

xx

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Thanks Treesea for you most amazing 1st post! It's really helped me :-)

I'm moving to Sydney in 3 weeks with my 2 best mates 4 2yrs and are looking to live in the CBD, with your help were going to look into living in Paddington, Woollahra and The Rocks

xx

 

Mmm, I could live in all three of those places - and Rushcutters Bay and Pyrmont as well. I lived in Ultimo - nice and close to the city but a bit too industrial/dead for my tastes. Pyrmont was nicer than Ultimo even in those days (before the Pyrmont Bridge closed to traffic. That was definitely an enlightened idea - closing the bridge).

 

All this reminds me of somewhere else close to the city, where I spent a fair bit of time - Newtown. It was pretty bohemian in those days and apparently still is, so friends still living there tell me. It has a festival that is well worth a visit. I checked if they still have it and this year it is on Sunday the 8th of November (Newtown Neighbourhood Centre, Inc. if you fancy looking it up.). Definitely worth a visit.

 

The other thing I recommend, if you feel like splashing out a bit and they still have them, is smorgasbords. They used to be on during lunchtimes, one day a week at various hotels - Hilton and Wentworth come to mind. There is also a great seafood smorgasbord, I think on a Friday night ? at the Marriott (overlooks Hyde Park. Apologies if it's been discontinued, but if it's on it is definitely worth a splurge.

 

Or, if you like Chinese food, going for yum cha down in Chinatown (here in the UK people call this dim sum) is also worth trying out.

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Hi, really enjoyed reading your post. We are only just starting out in visa process but are considering both Queensland and NSW for a base. My cousin lives in Rhodes and showed us some lovely areas (loved Balmain and Mona Vale, Valcluse, Manly, etc) but I know we could not afford to live there. My husband is a roofer, I am a housing officer and we have a 10 year old daughter. I don't know where to begin in terms of identifying a suitable place that is realistic for our needs but we did love it near the beaches. I have also been converted to the idea of apartments since our trip which was a revalation.

Queensland would probably offer us more affordable accommodation but I don't know if I could cope with the constant humidity. We really want to be in NSW but I suppose it comes down to cost. I need the nicest area on a budget near the sea. Not much to ask, eh?

Thanks for your time

Joanne

 

Hi Joanne

 

We used to live in Sydney, but now in Brisbane. I would take the Brissy climate over Syndey ANY day of the week! Cost of housing meant we lived further from the coast in Sydney and it ws HOT HOT HOT in the summer and COLD COLD COLD in the winter. Lots of 40 degree days and lots of frosty mornings.

 

Here in brissy we are closer to the water, because it is so much more affordable. The weather is so much less extreme. OK, yes, we do have a few weeks of humidity in Jan / Feb but apart from that the humidity is not an issue.

 

Hope that helps

 

Love

 

Rudi

x

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Guest treesea
You're definitely going back a long time, the Pyrmont bridge was closed to traffic in 1981. :biggrin:

 

Sydney Architecture Images- Pyrmont Bridge

 

That brings back memories. I went away for a few months, came home, went to go over the bridge (we were living in Balmain at the time) to go to Paddys Market one day, and it was closed! I thought at the time that they were just doing maintainance on it.

 

It is an eerie feeling, when roads change in subtle ways. I lived in Sydney before the tunnel was built, going under the harbour. The first time I used it was by accident, coming from the eastern suburbs, and expecting to go over the bridge, but just found myself in the wrong lane. And I remember thinking at the time "how did these roads used to go?" It's like the way you go from the city to Ultimo now compared to before all that inner harbour area was revitalised. Broadway is no longer the path of choice.

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I actually rather like the Kings Cross area. It has had a reputation as a sleazy, crime-ridden, red-light area but it also has a large number of residents and it has a lot of hotels and back-packer hostels. . Potts Point and Elizabeth Bay are nice areas. I used to walk to work at Garden Island down and up thru the X every day. I think I'd feel safer walking around the Cross late at night than any other suburb as there are so many people (and Police!) about.

 

I'm moving back to Surry Hills in a few weeks but any of the inner city suburbs would suit me - Glebe, Newtown, Balmain, Darlo, Paddo, Neutral Bay just over the Bridge.

 

I was at Parramatta last night and Penrith the night before and both are big cities within their own right. Parra, particularly impressed me with lots of outdoor restaurants, shops, riverside walk, theatre. It's the real geographical centre of Sydney too.

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Guest scottndina

Thanks for all the contributions to this useful thread.

 

We landed in October, and didn't have much time to find a place, and we are now in Surry Hills for 6 months, and very happy with the central access to interviews which are all over the place. Depending where works ends up, we'll likely relocate for an easy commute... although living on the beach is soooo tempting.

 

I was down in Maroubra on the weekend, and was particularly impressed with the beach and locale, since I had only heard of Bondi, Bronte, Coogee previously.

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Guest treesea
Hi Joanne

 

We used to live in Sydney, but now in Brisbane. I would take the Brissy climate over Syndey ANY day of the week! Cost of housing meant we lived further from the coast in Sydney and it ws HOT HOT HOT in the summer and COLD COLD COLD in the winter. Lots of 40 degree days and lots of frosty mornings.

 

Here in brissy we are closer to the water, because it is so much more affordable. The weather is so much less extreme. OK, yes, we do have a few weeks of humidity in Jan / Feb but apart from that the humidity is not an issue.

 

Hope that helps

 

Love

 

Rudi

x

 

That's a good point. The cold in winter in Sydney can be wicked.

 

One good thing about living somewhere like Maroubra is when you are home, you feel you are really home. Only a few miles from the CBD, yet feels like a world away. But again, being right on the sea in winter can be a freezing choice. We lived in Bondi for a while and it could turn on a winter wind that cut like a knife.

 

I really liked the time we spent living on the North side (manly first and later on Neutral Bay, because then I could take the ferry to wrok. Such a relaxing way to travel, first thing in the morning. The down side, though, was that on foggy or stormy days the ferry didn't run. Which meant trudging up towards the main road to catch a bus. Or shoudl I say, to hope to catch a bus, because if they were already full they just went straight past our stop. On those days, instead of taking half an hour to get to work it took over an hour.

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We have some friends (in their 30s with a little one) living over at Brighton-Le-Sands and they seem to be loving it.

 

My plan is to move there at first cause its good to have support etc etc...BUT...I have seen mixed opinions about this place...

 

What do you think?

 

Cheers

B1K3R

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Guest tenquidder

Actually you will find that on average beachside suburbs in Sydney are cooler in summer and warmer in winter than suburbs to the west, because of the influence of sea breezes and ocean currents. Of course comparison with Brisbane is a different kettle of fish

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We have some friends (in their 30s with a little one) living over at Brighton-Le-Sands and they seem to be loving it.

 

My plan is to move there at first cause its good to have support etc etc...BUT...I have seen mixed opinions about this place...

 

What do you think?

 

Cheers

B1K3R

I like Brighton, use to visit when I worked at the airport.

 

As for the other comments about suburbs in Sydney, remember that we get something like 100,000 migrants a year and most come to Sydney so suburbs can change rather fast.

Take Parramatta and Liverpool for example. Parramatta used to be a real alternative CBD and has turned into a middle eastern ghetto, and so has Liverpool. Sad really.

If you have a choice, choose eastern or Northern suburbs, or the City. Inner west is till OK as long as you don't go any further west than Stratified.

Sydney is not cheap yet at present there are a lot of opportunities. I bought a holiday house on the Hawkesbury river last year at the peak of the scare mongering campaign (you know the one about the sky is falling, prices are going down to half, the sea is rising to the roof tops etc) for a real bargain.

 

However, to anyone who is planing to move to Sydney unless you have done a Pizarro move already, I would say not to sell and not to buy, but to rent and get to know what you like. Not what some stranger tells you from far away. After all you are the one that must like it.

What is the point if I told you the best place to live is the City when your hobby is blacksmithing? Or I tell you buy a townhouse in Ultimo yet you love gardening and want to grow tomatoes? I live in the western suburbs not far from Liverpool yet I import machinery from the US and have a shipping container parked in my front lawn. I doubt the gentle people of Balmain or Newtown would love me much for that in their suburb.

Come to visit, ask lots of questions, rent for a while, you can get 6 month contracts no problem and then move. Bring nothing with you just one bag. That is the way to move places. Buy what you need and when you move sell it on e-bay.

My opinion anyway.

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choose eastern or Northern suburbs, or the City. Inner west is till OK as long as you don't go any further west than Stratified.

 

Thanks for your tips Marco. I know you said Brighton is OK....does not mean south/south east is fine too?

 

Cheers

B1K3R

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