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Old 01-06-2008, 04:27 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Plasterers In Oz

Hi

My OH is a plasterer and he has asked me to ask if the skim goes off quick in the heat or if it is ok?

Hope I made sense of the above cos I was only half listening to him when he asked me to put this on

Thanks

Lorraine

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Old 03-06-2008, 01:46 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Post Skimming Info

By skimming (in thier job advertisements) they only skim the joins in the plasterboard eg. all drywall!! they do something called white-set (not premixed like multifinish) which is a lime and gypsum based mix. You have to grade your gypsum, slake your lime (your plasticiser) the night before in a tub and idealy add a pozinene of sorts like talc or mica. Its's an old way of plastering out here which is generally not used anymore - I have to get the exact properties right myself. I have heard of useing coving cement/adhesive (knocked up thinner) which has most of the properties of multifinish but sets quicker than than you could ever imagine regardless of the heat. But yes all plaster products are heat affected and will react much the same way as plastering on a hot day in the U.K. just times that by constant good weather and plastering becomes more tricky. You have to reduce your set sizes by a third at least! (that applies to taping and joining too) I believe you can slow down mixes with size water eg. gelutin powder much like wall paper paste. Again I suggest guaging the time in setting with different amounts of size water but you can only slow it so much. A lot like sizing Class A casting plasters. I am yet to experiment myself. Will keep you posted on the white-set properties/quantities. As for dry wall products I have used a tub of pre-mix top coat and added extra water for ease of spreading and skimmed complete walls (only) with it on primed surfaces. You get it as flat as you can and stay as tight as you can - they sand it down much the same way as joins in dry-wall to get a fine finish.
Rendering is the same internal/external but hardly use a poly/wood float on external just a sponge float with 5mm depth max on external and 10mm on internal (use wood float on internal works to get a closed finish and then its just painted I believe they used to white-set on that but they have lost the skill over the years due to Dry-Wall coming in - not even sure white-set is suitable for use on plasterboard?)
To my knowledge there are no other light weight rendering products out here either eg. Hardwall or Bonding coats
Australia have embraced polymors eg. plastic based compounds on external rendering as well much like Germany - Sto-kit systems etc (lots of different aggregates with lots of different finishes)
Tilers do all the floor screeding out here too........
I am a City & Guild Qualified Solid and Fibrous Plaster with over 8 years commercial experience - mostly my experience consisted of refurbishment and new build works within existing homes and new builds on site. The descriptions for skilled workers here in Australia are: "Solid work" is sand cement rendering but we include skimming in the U.K - like i mentioned they used to do something similar and still do (I'm told!? - regionaly eg. W.A. or Victoria) generaly old style buildings!! "Fibrous" is basicly Dry-Wall out here - stud wall wood or metal, sheeted out and then joined only.
"Fibrous" in the U.K. is running moulds and casting with class A plasters - like making decorative coving and ceiling roses etc.
Things get lost in translation between the two - it's not a wrong description as it is not right one as Fibrous is exactly that, using "fibers" to join, reinforce and finish plaster constructions.
Fibrous plasterers (U.K) can make thier own plasterboard for ceilings and walls and join them much the same way as modern Dry-Wallers do. The Dry-Wall technique actually comes from that.
Also traditionaly trained plasterers all used to tile too - anything that got stuck or used adhesion as such fell inside the plasterers duristriction to do, knowing that you can see why tilers do screeded floors in Australia.

My Advise, If your thinking of coming to Oz - Brush up on Dry Wall techniques, metal frame partioning and suspended ceilings.
I hope that helps - need any other advise email me at djlp4life@hotmail.com

Regards,

Chris Le Port.

Last edited by Chris-LP; 03-06-2008 at 02:43 AM. Reason: spelling
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Old 03-06-2008, 05:25 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Go to W.A Victoria and parts of NSW and S.A for internal skimming. White set is a 3 part mix gypsum, lime and water in a 1-1 0r 50/50% mix applied 1 coat to solid surfaces only (not suitable for plasterboard) gypsum can be bought in 20kg bags called Hardwall and lime in 20ltr or 40ltr bags. Slake by adding water to powder lime in a barrel over night if lime putty is unavailable. A 20kg Hardwall with 40ltr of lime putty is a gauge that will cover 35-40sqm of surface at 1-3mm
thickness. You can plaster directly to concrete surface or re-skim painted surfaces with the aid of a bonding agent. All new set render "green state" can be plastered and old surfaces must be soaked in water (its best to thoroughly wet down any porous surface regardless). The more lime in the backing (render coat) will speed up the set time. The plaster is air and heat affected. You can retard it (slow set time) by adding a food agent called "cream of tartar" which is high in acid counteracting the alkali in your mix. Use clean equipment/water - no cross contaminants. Do not over mix, its better to have slightly more hardwall to lime in order to achieve a good set. Don't knock the guts out of the mix when whisking!! Mix up to a creamy consistancey - You have thirty minutes to apply to the surface and approx 1 hour after that to finish. Trowel up as per usual like multifinish skimming up a small amount of fat. Common faults are blisters often caused by weak gypsum mixes. Be carefull over whisking and under gypsum gauged mixes can cause a mix that will not set.

Last edited by Chris-LP; 03-06-2008 at 05:32 AM. Reason: more points
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Old 16-06-2008, 05:54 PM   #4 (permalink)
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tell your other half to trowel up faster, no stopping for cups of t, and get 4 sets done a day. lol
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Old 18-06-2008, 01:12 AM   #5 (permalink)
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I'm told by a taffe lecturer on the solid plastering course a competent qualified tradesman in W.A white-setting a quoter for the day is 100sqm of set (per-day) 1-3mm thickness. Thats pretty full on. Four 25sqm sets in some of Australia's hottest country. I guess depending on your strengths it can be done - The quoter for the day in the U.K on new build is an average size room (13x13ft) or three ceilings per-day. Our's is two coat work though. Both are estimates of work without a labourer or an off-sider as they call them out here with the best possible conditions.
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Old 20-06-2008, 04:14 AM   #6 (permalink)
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